acrylic size for gum printing

From: Jack Brubaker ^lt;jack@jackbrubaker.com>
Date: 08/12/05-02:47:59 PM Z
Message-id: <BF22752E.12CAF%jack@jackbrubaker.com>

Over a week qgo I was asked for spicifics of my acrylic sizeing methods. I
was hesitant to respond because I have mostly used a very different appoach
that most list members (in part because I have slightly different goals).
Although I am playing with other sizing option since joining the list a
couple years ago I have printed most of my gums on a size of one part
liquitex Matt Medium and one part water. I make up about a pint and add a
few drops of household ammonia as a preservative. The diluted acrylic will
grow mold without some additional preservative. This coating is MUCH less
dilute than most workers use (more like 1 to 10 seems to be common
practice). The reason this works for me is that I use a real brush (not
foam, which will break up with the aggressive way I work) to spread the
layer out as thin as will cover the paper and then continue brushing the
paper aggressively in alternating directions until there is no gloss from
wetness in the size. This brushing helps matt out the surface and prevent
the coating being too slippery for the gum to hold onto the size. It is true
as Judy has pointed out that this sort of a size will not hold the lightest
tones with still development. I like a less photographic, slightly
posterized look so that has not been a major problem for me. When I want
fine light tones I print a thin coat of color with more dilute gum so the
layer will be thin. I over expose this layer to the extent that it will
bearly start to develope with floating on the water. I use aggressive
brushing to scrub off the tones. The brushing may continue for several
minutes. Because the size is so tough a smooth paper will brush develope
delicate tones with great control. This approach has for the most part only
worked across a short tonal scale so it would not do a one coat print, it is
used just to print the fine tones and have a range of control of selective
development. I use several other layers to build up the midrange and darker
tones and colors. I don't think this is a method that would suit many
printers and there are many printers out there who probably make better
prints, but having opened my mouth and been asked a direct question I felt
obliged to answer.

The advantage of this size is that its "bombproof", it will not stain or
break down even with many layers and aggresive development. It can be used
on many papers that would not usually be recommended for gum. Thin drawing
papers that might tear when handled after long soaks will be strengthened by
the size to the point that printing and development are no problem. It is
possible to apply too much size and have a slick surface that won't hold the
gum. In that case I use scotch-brite pads to lightly scratch the size and
give a little tooth.

I realize that there are several features of this method that violate
accepted dogma. I am rebuilding my web site now and hope to have a gallery
on my work up by fall. When I do I'll post that info.

Jack
Received on Fri Aug 12 14:47:21 2005

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