Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?

Susan,
   Are the problem "brown bottles" you refer to plastic or glass? I use
brown glass bottles for P-HD and the chemicals are fine for several months.
Curious: who is the "photographic guru" of San Diego? Thanks for the
additional info.
                     Victor

----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Huber" <shuber@ssisland.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 5:21 AM
Subject: Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?

> Hi Victor,
> I was told by the photographic guru of San Diego, Ca who is still teaching
> at many years plus that the P-Cat oxidizes very quickly in the brown
bottles
> and the bottles are the worst thing put upon the public. He says thta the
> Coca -cola clear bottles are better and the glass are fine (brown) if kept
> in a dim area.
> I have had problems with the P-Cat and will change back to Pyro which I
know
> won't oxidize in 2 months. The important thing is to keep the bottles
topped
> up- or; transfer to smaller bottles (if you have them).
> Hope this helps,
> Susan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Victor Loverro" <victor.loverro@verizon.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 9:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?
>
>
> Susan,
> Could you elaborate on the different containers? I always thought that
> the brown bottles were supposed to help prevent oxidation of chemicals.
> Glass being better than plastic to keep oxygen out and the brown for
light.
> Victor
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Susan Huber" <shuber@ssisland.com>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 5:18 AM
> Subject: Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?
>
>
> > Hi Loris,
> > I believe the P-Cat takes less time to print out than the Pyro al
> Hutchens.
> > The thing that is troublesome is; the P-Cat oxidizes very quickly
compared
> > to the Pyro and that being in different containers. The brown bottles
are
> > the worst! Use other bottles. I am not amused at travelling 9,000 kms
and
> > then ruining some of my negatives... Sandy King can clarify.
> > Always,
> > Susan
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Loris Medici" <loris_medici@mynet.com>
> > To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 12:17 AM
> > Subject: RE: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?
> >
> >
> > Donald, I haven't used Pyrocat-HD for alt. processes yet (because I use
> > digital negatives, not in-camera negatives) but on every publication or
> > article I've read it was said that pyro stained negatives takes longer
> > to print - because the color is much more opaque to UV light (even if it
> > seems very thin to you). In your case the exposure takes around 2 stops
> > longer, I'm sure there will be pyro in-camera negative users that will
> > approve/disapprove this difference.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Loris.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: donald ciccone [mailto:dsciccone@verizon.net]
> > Sent: 16 Ağustos 2005 Salı 06:55
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca
> > Subject: Re: Pyrocat-HD for alt printing?
> >
> >
> > ... I recently tried making a Vandyke
> > (brown) print but found my exposure times were very long (30 minutes or
> > more). The UV source is a bank of 18 inch blacklight bulbs ("350
> > Blacklight" by Sylvania). I have used the same printer with non-pyro
> > negatives and typically get exposure times for Vandyke prints in the 5-8
> >
> > minute range. Ideally, I would like to get more reasonable exposure
> > times
> > for pyro-developed negatives as well (possibly 10-15 minutes). Any
> > suggestions how to achieve this or do these negatives simply require a
> > stronger/different UV source? The pyro negatives do not appear dense or
> >
> > blocked up when viewed on a light box. Thanks for any assistance.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Received on Wed Aug 17 06:38:48 2005