Re: Adhesion: Silane and gum

Dear Katharine,

I love your picture of the ducks. I live about 150 yards north of the
Shoshone River, a major drainage in NW Wyoming. I'm intimately familiar
with waterfowl and appreciate their beauty.

Best regards,
Dave Rose
Big Wonderful Wyoming

----- Original Message -----
From: "Katharine Thayer" <kthayer@pacifier.com>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@sask.usask.ca>
Sent: Friday, March 04, 2005 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: Adhesion: Silane and gum

> If anyone's interested, I scanned my two attempts at printing on
> silane-treated glass, along with the same image printed on physical
> tooth on glass for comparison.
>
> http://www.pacifier.com/~kthayer/html/silane.html
> kt
>
>
> Katharine Thayer wrote:
> >
> > P.S. Whoever said that silane might be difficult to remove from glass
> > wasn't just woofin'. I've spent an hour and five razor blades scraping
> > away at it and there are still places where it just won't come off. If
> > this were just regular window glass, I'd toss it, but this is non-glare
> > glass that I paid $8.75 a sheet for, so I've got to keep at it. (If
> > anyone's interested, the etched side of the glass is the side the print
> > is viewed from; the gum is printed on the back (non-etched) side of the
> > glass).
> > Katharine
> >
> > Katharine Thayer wrote:
> > >
> > > I've obtained some silane which I hope is the same silane mentioned
> > > below (Martin Mueller's post from Feb 5). The supplier calls it gamma
> > > aminopropyltriethoxysilane and it's what they sent me when I asked for
> > > 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. I've seen the two names used
> > > interchangeably and they have the same CAS number, so I'm hoping it's
> > > the same substance. (Sorry, my knowledge of organic nomenclature is
far
> > > in the past so I can't tell by looking at the names why they would be
> > > the same thing).
> > >
> > > At any rate I've applied this silane, mixed 1% with acetone, to two
> > > carefully cleaned and de-greased and alcohol-treated (thanks Galina!)
> > > sheets of glass, left them overnight, and printed gum on them this
> > > morning. Some observations:
> > >
> > > (1) The wet gum coating didn't stick as well to the silane-treated
glass
> > > as it does to plain glass, nor did it brush as smoothly as it would on
> > > plain glass; it seemed to be phobic to the silane.
> > >
> > > (2) The exposed and hardened gum frilled off the silane-treated glass
> > > exactly as it would from plain untreated glass.
> > >
> > > (3) An added annoyance: Dichromate stains along the edges of the
> > > brushmarks, that simply will not clear with potassium metabisulfite
> > > treatment.
> > >
> > > However, now that I have re-read Martin's post one more time, I think
I
> > > need to try it again, because I didn't apply it exactly as he
> > > recommends. I misremembered the directions and applied the material
> > > with a tissue and then simply left it to evaporate, instead of
rubbing
> > > it til it evaporated, as instructed.
> > >
> > > So I will try it again, following the instructions precisely, but this
> > > can't happen until there is another nice day, (it's raining today)
> > > because I have to work outside with the acetone.
> > >
> > > Katharine Thayer
> > >
> > > MARTINM wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Another approach consists of using silane for the subbing: rub the
> > > > (clean/degreased!) glass plate with a 1% freshly prepared acetone
solution
> > > > of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane over one or both sides with a tissue
for
> > > > about 1 min until the solvent has evaporated. Allow the glass plate
to stand
> > > > for several hours to ensure reaction of the silane. On that layer
your gum
> > > > solution will firmly adhere.
> > > >
> > > > Some time ago (maybe in 2002 or 2003 - take a look at the archives)
Philippe
> > > > Monnoyer recommended incorporating silane into a gelatin solution.
It may be
> > > > a good idea to add a small amount of that above mentioned silane
mixture to
> > > > your gum solution.
> > > >
> > > > Martin
>
Received on Fri Mar 4 21:34:23 2005