Re: pigment

Hi,
Just a few comments about your list:

I wouldn't recommend either cadmium yellow. Even though Daniel Smith
calls these "semitransparent," the cadmiums are the most opaque of any
of the yellow pigments, with the one possible exception (off the top of
my head) of bismuth vanadate, PY184, and IMO are not good choices for a
tricolor, especially since you have specified that you're interested in
transparency.

Also, the Daniel Smith Indian Yellow, PY 108, wouldn't be among my top
choices for yellow for tricolor.

I tested PY 97 (Daniel Smith Hansa Yellow Medium) and PY 175 (Daniel
Smith Lemon Yellow and Winsor & Newton Winsor Lemon are both made from
this pigment)for tricolor and both seem capable enough.

The Daniel Smith quinacridone red is a good color for tricolor,
although it is misnamed. This paint is made from quinacridone rose
(PV19 gamma) not quinacridone red, which is PR209. But never mind that;
from four or five different samples of PV19 gamma, I liked this one the
best. It's deep and rich and prints a good solid magenta.

Of the Winsor & Newton reds (magentas) on your list, Alizarin Crimson
(PR83) is fugitive, permanent alizarin crimson is not entirely
lightfast (6,6 out of 8,8) Winsor red (PR254 pyrrole red) is very
lightfast, quinacridone red (PR 209) is lightfast, Scarlet Lake, in
spite of its name (lakes are often fugitive) is pretty good, 7,7.

As to which is "best" this is always a matter of personal preference. I
once preferred PR209 to PV19 gamma for tricolor, but that's before I
discovered Daniel Smith's version of PV19 gamma. And of course I
prefer PR 175 to either, but that's my own weird eccentric choice.

I wouldn't use either of the two magentas, Quinacridone magenta (PR
122) or Permanent Magenta (PV19 beta) on your list because they are
both too blue for tricolor, IMO.

I wouldn't recommend Prussian blue for tricolor. I haven't used either
of the Daniel Smith pthalos; my M. Graham pthalo is PB 15:3; in other
words it's what's often called the "green shade."

If you want to know more about the pigments, go to

http://handprint.com/HP/WCL/waterfs.html

Hope that answers some of your questions,
Katharine Thayer

On Nov 20, 2005, at 2:57 AM, Juan Miguel Jusdado wrote:

> Hi all: 
>
> My powdered pigments are draining and in my city I cannot find
> distributor, for what I have planned to change to tubes of liquid
> watercolor to continue with my gum and carbon works. 
>
> In my city I can have two options: Daniel Smith and Winsor & Newton,
> I have consulted the samples and references of colors and I would like
> they gave me some advice. Since my thoughts are tri-colored rubbers, I
> have looked for transparent colors or semi-transparent and these they
> are those that I have found:
>
>  
>
> DANIEL SMITH
>
>  
>
> Cadmium Yellow Light           nº. 284-600-018

> Lemon Yellow                       nº. 284-600-165

PY 175
>
> Hansa Yellow Medium           nº. 284-600-039
>
> Cadmium Yellow Medium      nº. 284-600-016
>
> Indiam Yellow                       nº. 284-600-045
>
>  
>
> Quinacridome Red                nº. 284-600-091
>
>  
>
> Phtalo Blue (GS)                  nº. 284-600-077
>
> Phtalo Blue (RS)                  nº. 284-600-119
>
>  
>
> WINSOR & NEWTON
>
>  
>
> Winsor Lemon Serie-I-          nº. 722
>
> Winsor Yellow Serie-I-          nº. 730
>
> Transparent Yellow Serie-I-   nº. 653
>
> Indian Yellow Serie-I-           nº. 319
>
>  
>
> Scarlet Lake Serie-II-           nº. 603
>
> Winsor Red Serie-I-             nº. 726
>
> Quinacridone Red Serie-III-   nº. 548
>
> Permanent Alizarin Crimson Serie-III-   nº. 466
>
> Alizarin Crimson Serie-I-       nº. 004
>
> Quinacridone Magenta Serie-III-          nº. 545
>
> Permanent Magenta Serie-III- nº. 489
>
>  
>
> Prusian Blue Serie-I-             nº.538
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Please, advise which are the best and more permanent. 
>
>  
>
> Thank you to answer and excuse for my English, text translated by
> computer.
>
>  
>
>  
Received on Sun Nov 20 22:15:39 2005