Mixing Argyrotype (my experience)

I mixed a 200ml batch of Argyrotype yesterday evening.

Since I didn't manage to find a source for Silver(I) Oxide (Ag2O), I
prepared it myself following Mike Ware's instructions in his Argyrotype
article - by mixing required amounts of Silver Nitrate (AgNO3) + Sodium
Hydroxide (NaOH). The Silver(I) Oxide formed this way was washed very
easily because it settles to the bottom of the vessel pretty quickly. I
poured the water from the original solutions (slowly, paying attention
to not loose solid) and added distilled water, mixed and poured again. I
repeated this one more time. I hope this is enough washing...

Later I prepared the hot (50C - putting the vessel in a hot water bath)
Sulfamic Acid solution and added the Silver(I) Oxide sludge to it. The
sludge dissolved completely and pretty quickly; it took not more than 20
- 30 secs (I think this is the part where Charles encountered a
problem). The resulting Silver Sulfamate solution was light brown /
amber in color (under 100W tungsten light) and free of any solid. Then,
I added the necessary amount of Ammonium Iron(III) Citrate, in two equal
parts - mixing well. The first part dissolved completely changing the
color to dark green. The second part partly dissolved, party caused a
light green cloud / sludge. I reheated the warm solution to 50C (putting
the vessel in a hot water bath) to see if it helps in dissolving the
light green cloud/sludge, it dissolved some more but that was all. So, I
mixed the solution and put aside for letting the light green cloud
settle. I filtered the solution later (original volume 200ml, ~160-170ml
after filtering) in order to remove the sludge and added distilled water
to make a final volume 200ml.

The whole operation took 1 hour (and that was the first time, I'm sure
it will not take more than 20-30minutes next time...) and it isn't more
complicated than mixing a batch of New Cyanotype. Pretty doable -
nothing special (as long as you have good chemicals and distilled water)
- and it's fun!

The only problem was the light green sludge formation after addition of
Ammonium Iron(III) Citrate. Mike Ware doesn't mention sludge formation
he just says "...filter the solution to remove any small amount of solid
remaining. (The solution should be a clear deep olive-green
colour.)...".

Q1: What is your experience? Did you notice any light green sludge
formation when mixing Argyrotype?

I presume it won't cause any problems since I get the same sludge when
mixing Vandyke sensitizer (Wynn White's artice on Vandyke also doesn't
mention a light green sludge). I simply filter it and use that way - it
works well. I hope the same for Argyrotype. It's probably something
about my Ammonium Iron(III) Citrate (from B&S).

Will try to print a couple of step tablets this evening (on Whatman
Watercolor and Bergger COT320). I'm very curious about the dmax I will
get. If it gives good Dmax (in my subjective terms) without double
coating, then will definitely use it. The cost for 200ml solution is
extremely low; I can opt to print Argyrotypes and then tone in Pt or Pd
for good permanency (instead of making relatively costly Ziatypes). The
total cost for making 200ml Argyrotype soln. was ~ USD 9.5 (including
the brown bottle). That makes a sensitizer cost of 5 cents per 11"x14"
print (when coating with glass rod). Pretty impressive when compared to
Ziatype (~ USD 1.5, that's 30x the cost of an Argyrotype).

Q2: Is there anyone who uses Li2PdCl4 for making a Pd toner for
Argyrotypes (or Vandykes / Salt Prints)? What color does it give? Is
there any on-line formula?

That's all for now.
Regards and TIA,
Loris.
Received on Mon Apr 3 05:32:37 2006