Cor, I am replying from a different computer so I don't have your questions,
but...
I aim for a pH around 6, as that gives me a little time before I get to 7+.
I work with gallons at a time so a few ml here or there don't end up on a
tally sheet. I mix a fresh batch as needed.
Filtering is certainly what I was implying that you do. Paper fibers, pt/pd
will build up. I only do, the expose to UV, after very heavy printing with
down time to follow to allow for stuff to settle out and for printing
session with Bein Fang as the whole piece gets coated so there is lots of
coating to be removed from the paper. And as Sandy suggest, only use
distilled water if for no other reason than piece of mind that it is not the
start of problems.
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype : ejprinter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Breukel, C. (HKG) [mailto:C.Breukel@lumc.nl]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 10:22 AM
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Subject: RE: Potassium Oxalate developer for Platinum printing
>
> Thanks for the tips Sanday & Marek, I'll follow your
> sugestions, and
> I'll let you know, it's good to hear that I do not have to
> throw the
> developer out (yet)!
>
> Best,
>
> Cor
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Sandy King [mailto:sanking@CLEMSON.EDU]
> > Sent: dinsdag 25 april 2006 17:14
> > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > Subject: RE: Potassium Oxalate developer for Platinum
> printing
> >
> > I print in kallitype and Pt./Pd. with both potassium oxalate
> and
> > sodium citrate developers. To keep either developer working
> well I
> > recommend.
> >
> > 1. Always mix with distilled water.
> >
> > 2. Replenish at the rate of a minimum of about 50 ml of fresh
> > solution for every 8X10 print that goes through the solution.
> >
> > 3. Check the pH frequently to make sure it stays acidic. If
> the
> > solution becomes base add oxalic acid (to potassium oxalate)
> or
> > citric acid (to sodium citrate) to return the solution to
> acidic
> > condition.
> >
> > If you do the above the developer should last a very long
> time.
> >
> > Sandy
> >
> >
> >
> > >Cor,
> > >I do not print pure Pt, but in my experience of
> palladium/platinum
> > >mix the developer lasts forever. I just replenish what was
> is lost
> > >in a development session. Do keep your developer acidic, as
> it will
> > >fog the paper otherwise. If you use buffered papers that
> might
> > >require even more oxalic acid replenishment. I keep mine
> developer
> > >with some undissolved acid on the bottom.
> > >Le tus know how you solved your fogging problem.
> > >Marek, Houston
> > >
> > >>From: Eric Neilsen <e.neilsen@worldnet.att.net>
> > >>Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > >>To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > >>Subject: RE: Potassium Oxalate developer for Platinum
> printing
> > >>Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 20:34:59 -0500
> > >>
> > >>Cor, Your developer will hold onto a portion of your coated
> area
> that
> > was
> > >>exposed and not part of the print. This coated and very
> slightly
> excited
> > >>area will become part of that 500ml; which seems really
> skimpy to me
> by
> > the
> > >>way. There are also buffers in the papers that can
> adversely effect
> your
> > >>developer. While you may only need 500ml to cover your
> paper, I'd
> advise
> > you
> > >>to use a larger amount as a stock solution. If the cost of
> Potassium
> > Oxalate
> > >>powder is high in your area, I would make it from Potassium
> Carbonate
> > and
> > >>Oxalic acid. Pour out the amount need to develop your
> print, and
> after
> > pour
> > >>it back.
> > >>
> > >>You can also use Oxalic acid to keep your developer on the
> acid side
> of
> > >>life. You may also find that exposing your developer to UV
> light
> and
> > >>letting it sit, will allow you to remove the excess metals
> from your
> > >>developer. The greenish quality is not a problem. Single
> shot
> eliminates
> > the
> > >>chance of fog due to removed components from previous
> prints, but I
> > don't
> > >>find it necessary.
> > >>
> > >>You can use a lower concentration of Pot ox but you run the
> risk of
> > graining
> > >>up your prints. You will also need slightly more exposure.
> > >>
> > >>I have only tried brush development a few times, but I
> would look
> into a
> > >>good even pour ,just like for coating the sensitizer, and a
> quick
> even
> > >>dispersal of the coating, perhaps even by using a rod.
> > >>
> > >>Eric
> > >>
> > >>Eric Neilsen Photography
> > >>4101 Commerce Street
> > >>Suite 9
> > >>Dallas, TX 75226
> > >>http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
> > >>http://ericneilsenphotography.com
> > >>
> > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > >>> From: Breukel, C. (HKG) [mailto:C.Breukel@lumc.nl]
> > >>> Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 5:52 AM
> > >>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> > >>> Subject: Potassium Oxalate developer for Platinum
> printing
> > >>>
> > >>> (maybe you'll see this message for the second time, I
> did not see
> it
> > >>> appear..)
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi,
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> I have been using a 25% solution of Potassium Oxalate as
> my
> developer
> > >>> for Platinum printing (no Palladium added), and to my
> surprise
> this
> > >>> developer went "off" rather quikly. That is: in the
> 500ml I
> started
> > with
> > >>> I could process only 5-7 8*10 images (did not keep exact
> count).
> My
> > last
> > >>> print showed veiled highlights, which did not want to
> clear, and
> the
> > >>> PotOx solution is now very murky with a greenish brown
> strong
> colour.
> > >>>
> > >>> I looked into dome books as well as in the archives, and
> the
> things I
> > >>> find are contradicting (no surprise I guess). Crawford
> (and
> Farber
> > who I
> > >>> think quotes Crawford) claims that the developer keeps
> indefinitely,
> > and
> > >>> has only be toped up with fresh developer to make up for
> the
> loss. It
> > >>> actually gets better when it's more used. James states
> about the
> > same,
> > >>> although he says that there is an end to the live of the
> developer.
> > >>> Jeffrey Mathias advices to use the developer single
> shot, reusing
> > will
> > >> > cause fog..
> > >>>
> > >>> Single shot seems a bit wasteful, as well environmental
> unfriendly
> > with
> > >>> this toxic chemical, OTOH 6 8*10 prints with half a
> litre isn't
> > exactly
> > >>> economical either, plus the ruining of the last print.
> > >>>
> > >>> Can one use a lower concentration of PotOX, develop
> longer and
> > discard
> > >>> it afterwards?
> > >>>
> > >>> I did try brush development with glycerol: PotOx 1:1,
> but I
> wasn't
> > very
> > >>> successful with that, got a lot of developer lines, will
> brush
> > >>> development also work with FO, I have only read about it
> connection
> > with
> > >>> AFO.
> > >>>
> > >>> Comments or suggestions/
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks!
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Cor
Received on Tue Apr 25 10:21:16 2006
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