Re: Lead Toning Cyanotypes - share your experience please

MessageLoris,

the first MSDS I found:
http://msds.ehs.cornell.edu/msds/siri/files/cjr/cjrbr.html
It seems quite a nasty stuff.

Regards from Slovenia
Stane Kocar
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Loris Medici
  To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
  Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 2:31 PM
  Subject: Lead Toning Cyanotypes - share your experience please

  I tried to tone a step tablet new cyanoype test print with Lead(II) Acetate Trihydrate the night before:

  I like the resulting color change very much; it's a much cooler color. (It's something like "usual cyanotype color - green", the untoned sample looks much greener - under tungsten lighting - when two are viewed side by side.)

  BUT

  1) What are the dangers associated with Lead(II) Acetate Trihydrate? It looks like moist sugar/rock salt, it seems it's deliquescent and I suspect it's a hard-to clean, sticky matter (see below for more detail)... Does Lead(II) Acetat evaporates at normal room temperature? What I can do to thoroughly clean my trays from it?

  2) I've mixed a 5% solution with "tap water". The chemical seems to not going into solution well; the solution gets cloudy and you can see very very fine particles playing on top of the print when you're toning, and most importantly this solid precipitates on the print surface. Is it OK to make a toning solution with tap water or should I use distilled water?

  3) I noticed the precipitation while drying the print - the dark tones were showing a white veiling which goes off when you rub a paper towel to the print. I concluded that it's precipitated Lead(II) Acetate and quickly got rid of the print. I touched the dried prints with bare hands (but toned using latex gloves) - will I die!? ;)

  In conclusion - I like the color that results when toning cyanotypes in Lead(II) Acetate. But since my sample seems to stick to the paper, I'm afraid of using it. (I don't think anyone would like a toxic print!) Can you please share your experience with Lead(II) Acetate?

  * What should be the strenght of the solution?
  * Should I definitely use distilled water when mixing the toner?
  * Is there any effective way of getting rid of the toner and get a totally clean print?
  * In short, how should I use this toner without causing any health risk and damage to myself and the viewers/customers/environment?

  Thanks in advance,
  Loris.

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Received on 08/23/06-07:03:30 AM Z