>
> deleted
>
> > It is a bit of a pain to saw these things. Don't use the thin pipes as
> > they do not keep their shape. Hope this helps. I received this idea from
> > another member of phopto-l and I am grateful. Sorry I lost his file.
> >
> > Mary Ann
> >
>
> Hacksaws work very well for cutting PVC. The thick-walled type is
> "Schedule 40" PVC. There are also thicker versions, but they far
> exceed the stated requirements. I used to use S40 to build poles for
> portable volleyball sets. It's very tough. The biggest problem may be
> finding PVC with a large enough diameter. The largest typically available
> in home centers is four inches.
>
> --
> Steve Holzworth
> sch@unx.sas.com "Do not attribute to poor spelling
> SAS Institute x6872 That which is actually poor typing..."
> SAS/Macintosh Development Team - me
> Cary, N.C.
>
A better tool for cutting 5-6" PVC is an electric skil-saw. I've
cut the stuff for years in my old life which included working with it.
It's true that most "home improvement places only supply up to 4" sizes.
Wholesale plumbing houses carry the larger sizes or can order them.
Usually, they are only available in 20' lengths, however. The thing to do
is stop by a new housing clonstruction sitr where they're doing the
"groundwork" (new sewage, etc) and ask to buy a piece from their scraps.
If you talk a good line of shit, they'll probably be happy to give you a
2' piece of "scrap".
Personally (and I know it's rare) I found a used 16 x 20 Unidrum
at my local camera mart for $20.00 (don't mean to brag) -- best idea yet.
I do believe that once the PVC solvents are "set", they are chemically
neutral. But as far as the effect the chemistries have on them . . .
BTW, what do you use for a chemical channel? How do you keep the
thge paper from lapping onto itself???
Just some thoughts and input . . .
-- Allen
Allen R. Johnson, Jr.
"Imagine That" Studios, Laurel, MD