Kate, do you dip or draw - when coating? (maybe I should start a new thread...hmm) And may I ask whether or not you sub before coating? I thought that maybe ear-budding some albumen 'round the edge of each plate 'collodion-style' would work (I'll try that next)
----- Original Message ----
From: Kate M <kateb@paradise.net.nz>
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Sent: Tuesday, 5 December, 2006 7:28:59 PM
Subject: RE: SE-1 + Wetting Agent - Shelf life
Hi Richard, I would only add the hardener and alcohol just before coating - otherwise the alcohol will evaporate over time, and the hardener will - well, harden! Chrome alum is much more healthy than formaldehyde, especially if you don't have a fume cabinet and ventilated drying. I used to use Ilford film hardener. Yeah, I mean melting -typicalpointy-headed lecturer making things harder than they really are!
I would just leave the plates to harden for a week before using them if I was using alum - that's why I use formaldehyde - it works quicker. If I was making the choice myself, I'd coat as many plates as I could in a bunch, then store them between acid-free tissue in a lightproof container till use. I keep mune in a cupboard in the darkroom in an old photo paper bag. Last time I got some out to use, they were perfect despite not having been touched for over a year.
Kate
Thanks Kate,
Can the alcohol and hardener be added before melting. I would normally cut open and carve out the contents into equal sized portions, say 25g each. Will SE1 last as long with additives, or should alcohol/hardener only be added when reactivating (does that just mean melting).
What's healthier, formaldehyde or chrome alum?
----- Original Message ----
From: Kate M <kateb@paradise.net.nz>
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Sent: Monday, 4 December, 2006 9:55:19 PM
Subject: RE: SE-1 + Wetting Agent - Shelf life
Hi Richard, I haven't used this particular emulsion, but here's what I've experienced with Jessop's, Liquid Light and Tetenal work. I separate my emulsion into black film containers and don't add any wetting agent at that stage (or ever come to think of it! I do add a little alcohol to cut foaming when I reactivate. Wouldn't wetting agent cause coating problems with bubbles?). I always keep the containers in a black bag or box until use, as I'm not totally convinced they are lightproof. Also, when you heat them up, the tops can pop off so always reactivate under safelight ,or in the dark. I've coated plates with emulsion and come back to them over a year later. They still print perfectly. I always harden the emulsion with formaldehyde before coating glass, it's the only way I can prevent frilling and lifting of the emulsion during development. I think age-cured emulsion (more than a month)
doesn't have as many frilling problems. Well, at least that's my experience.
Cheers
Kate
Hello to all the alt-photoists out there, this is my first post. I'm trying Dry plates at the moment and would like to figure out a cost/space affective way of working. Here's my question...s
Does adding wetting agent (ilford) affect the shelf-life of (silverprint) SE-1 emulsion?
I would like to separate a 240ml bottle of emulsion into smaller film containers and add 5ml wetting agent to each.
Also...
Under dry, lightproof conditions how long will a coated plate last for?
And...
Does the ISO of SE-1 emulsion change over time like Liquid Light?
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