Re: First Tricolor Gum (on aluminum)
Hi Loris,
I also use aluminum 'sheets' (used offset material), but i glue a very thin chinese silkpaper on it with some rabbit glue. Then the 'normal' gelatine-glyoxal etc. gum treatment.
The effect of the alu-shiny-surface through the thin silk-paper is were i am looking for. Registration with a 'steel scratch tool' in line with marks on the plain paper neg.
Cheers,
Henk
On 11 dec 2006, at 8:44, Loris Medici wrote:
Thanks.
Yes I print the cyan layer first - but I still can't register by eye
because I use plain paper negatives not transparency material.
I'm just using an empirically designed curve. Will calibrate using
Mark's system later - when I'm more familiar with the process - I just
want to experiment as much as possible right now; can't bother myself
with trying to be as precise / consistent as possible. To me gum is
definitely not for the control freak...
Thanks for the aluminum flashing tip - will look for this material.
Since I plan to paint the bare aluminum borders for most of my images
(mostly white - but with some color in it, like an overmat / frame) to
prevent distraction, a pre-painted material won't do harm... But this
won't work for images where seeing the metal borders would be preferred.
Next project is:
To face-mount the images to plexiglass. (See
http://plexiphoto.com/engels/samples.html <- will do something like this
- think of it as in-house Diasec mounting. I'm still looking for
suitable materials and thinking on procedures...)
Best regards,
Loris.
-----Original Message-----
From: sam wang [mailto:stwang@bellsouth.net]
Sent: 10 Aralők 2006 Pazar 22:56
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: First Tricolor Gum (on aluminum)
Loris,
Congratulations on printing tricolor on aluminum!
A couple of observations:
- If you printed cyan, or blue, first, it would be very easy to register
by eye. The red layer may then be dominant, but if you are going to
apply a black, or anything dark at the end, the red/magenta cast would
be toned down.
- You would definitely need a curve specifically for the new surface.
Even with paper, surface differences sometimes require different curves.
- We can buy aluminum flashing already coated with white paint on one
side. If it works, then you would not need to apply gesso and save a
little work.
Again, congratulations and I'll look forward to seeing what else you'll
do with it!
Sam
On Dec 10, 2006, at 11:43 AM, Loris Medici wrote:
Hi all,
I just wanted to share my very first tricolor gum print (a test print
actually) on aluminum (actually on any media). I just realized that I
set a too hard target for a beginner because:
1) Working with aluminum is not easy (have to put two coats of acrylic
gesso + two coats of gelatine/CaCO3 mixture - a trick I learned from
Keith Gerling, tonal range and development is quite different from
what is it on paper),
2) Starting with tricolors instead of (more forgiving) multilayer
monochromes may not be the most logical route to take,
3) Aluminum is a stable support/media but this doesn't necessarily
mean that registration is easier and more successful - you have to use
some kind of mechanical registration / you can't register by eye.
4) The whole process is definitely not for the faint-hearted.
Anyway, the print is here:
http://www.loris.medici.name/Tricolor_Gum_on_Aluminum.jpg
It's still missing the K layer + as you can easily spot the M layer is
not correcly registered. A very rough print...
Anyway, let me express my immense admiration for people who are able
to make wonderful prints with this process. Respect!
Best regards,
Loris.
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