Re: plexglass face mounting
Loris, your comment about sealing a print with polyurethane prompted me to share my experience with sealing with lacquer. I haven't done this on a print but I make iron furniture that I paint with artist acrylics because I like the color and relatively non-toxicity (compared with the very tough and deadly materials for metal). I prime the metal with acrylic rust proof primer and then go about building up many layers of decorative paint. The acrylic is way too soft to hold up to the abrasion that furniture would have to endure so once I am satisfied with the look I saturate the acrylic with lacquer. This is done with excessive amounts of lacquer so it will sink into the absorbent acrylic before it dries. If runs or sags form I spray on more lacquer to let the run flow out and flatten. On a flat print this would be easy to do with it horizontal since the lacquer wouldn't tend to flow around. Just spray on a thick enough layer so it will sink in at the bottom of the layer before it dries from the top of the layer. The result is having both a hard layer on top and the acrylic hardened. I suspect gum would absorb lacquer in the same way. I have hauled ironwork finished this way to shows for years with very little damage. It there was a scratch it would often be in the clear layer and not into the paint. By the way there are wonderful new lacquers that be used outdoors. Jack > From: Loris Medici <mail@loris.medici.name> > Reply-To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Date: Tue, 12 Dec 2006 08:42:36 +0200 > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: RE: plexglass face mounting > > > Hi Katharine, > > Polyurethane based glossy (or semi-glossy) wood finish can be used to > seal the print surface also. Products designed for outdoor furniture are > non-yellowing and UV protective. Still there's a problem with the "rough > terrain" of multilayer gum prints - if not enough viscous, the finish > would migrate to lower parts of the image... > > I like the glass / double glass idea (maybe plexi would be better - > because glass is quite heavy compared to plexi). Noted for future works, > thanks. > > Regards, > Loris. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Katharine Thayer [mailto:kthayer@pacifier.com] > Sent: 11 Aralžk 2006 Pazartesi 21:52 > To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca > Subject: Re: plexglass face mounting > > Hey guys, > Embedding the whole surface in casting resin, as you say, would do the > trick but would somewhat change the nature of the work. You might do > the same thing with acrylic medium or gel, but may have to apply it in > layers to get the thickness. Or something I did for a show where I > mounted prints on hardboard panels and presented them unglazed and > unframed: to protect the prints and also to give it a nice sheen, I > poured clear beeswax over the prints and buffed the heck out of it with > a soft cloth to give it a little luster. When I was done buffing 20 > fairly large panels this way, I had really sore arm muscles. The beeswax > is softer than the resin idea, but also has a more organic look to it, > which appealed to me. > > It's easy with glass, because you can print on the back of the glass so > that the image is viewed through the glass, then the print is protected > by the glass, without anything needed on the front of the print > (although I've thought of putting another piece of glass, separated by > some space, behind (both pieces of glass held by wood strips at the > edges) so the piece could be hung away from the wall, as a divider or > something like that, and viewed from both sides. Of course not all > images would work well that way. This idea wouldn't work for aluminum > of course, but I'm just putting this in a general category of ideas > about how to present work that you don't want to, or doesn't lend itself > well to, the usual matting and glazing and framing routine. Katharine > > >
|