Hi Mark,
Yeah, I tried the line screen route with Peter at first. Tried them
for about a year. David Hoptman uses that method and makes some
beautiful images. It didn't seem to jive well with the Toyobo plates I
am using for some reason, however. I'm much happier using the finer
stochastic screens. Seems more like film grain.
Thanks!
Jon
Ender100@aol.com wrote:
Jon,
I spoke with Peter at Copy Graphics about the fabrication of aquatint
screens on their imagesetter a few years ago. I could be wrong on
this, but it seems that the users were having best luck with using a
line screen output for the aquatint screen rather than a stochastic
method when used in combination with a negative that was made with
diffusion dither or stochastic method. It appeared that there was
less problem with interference patterns I believe.
Best
Wishes,
Mark Nelson
Precision Digital
Negatives - The System
PDNPrint Forum at Yahoo
Groups
www.MarkINelsonPhoto.com
In a message dated 1/23/07 11:57:08 AM, jon@terabear.com writes:
80% density is the rule of
thumb. Not sure what the standard
'solarplate' one uses in terms of dpi, but Duane at Copy Graphics in
Santa Fe would know. He's who I've been going through for mine. I
believe the standard screens are something like 300 or 400 dpi...
http://www.copygsf.com/
Any service bureau with an imagesetter should be able to produce these
kinds of screens, however.
I've been using an 1800 dpi stochastic screen using an Olec exposure
unit. I don't recommend it for learning one since there are many more
technical challenges with using the finer screen -- solid contact
becomes all the more critical, but I think better results.
Jon
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