I work with Toyobo Printight plates (not
Solarplates, but another very sensitive photo-polymer plate), and I
work back into the plates after they're exposed and are hardened. The
plates are tough, but I can add drypoint lines with a small scraper tip
(a regular etching needle is not really sharp enough for what I want),
and I can scrape away heavily aquatinted areas to lighten them to a
range of values. The one thing I'm still struggling with--so far
unsuccessfully--is getting rid of darker marks in light areas. I've
read that Putz Pomade or Brasso can work to "polish" the plates to a
lighter value, but my experience tells me that it still doesn't
eliminate a dark blot.
I also don't wait 24 hrs to expose my Pictorico film positives after
they come out of my 2200. I haven't noticed any problems.
Hope that helps.
Nancy
Jeremy Moore wrote:
Susan,
I'm using an Epson 2200 with the new Pictorico OHP which comes on
rolls and I only let my negs dry for about 3 hours before I print them
and when I reprint them days or weeks later I get the exact same print
(as far as i can tell).
-Jeremy-
On 2/5/07, SusanV <susanvoss3@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi,
I'm impatiently waiting for my OHP and aquatint screen to arrive so I
can start testing exposures and digineg output, etc. (and I just
realized I'm supposed to wait 24 hours for the neg to dry
arrrrgggghhhhh ).
So while I'm waiting, I came up with a question for you who work with
this polymer: Has anyone tried working on the plate after it's
exposed and hardened? Is the material "carvable", or soft enough
(meaning softer than the steel tool i'd be using), to inscribe or
otherwise mess with in the way an intagio copper or zinc plate can be
done?
susan
--
Susan Daly Voss
www.dalyvoss.com
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