U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: polymer gravure idea

Re: polymer gravure idea



HI Everyone, and thanks for the replies about not having to wait 24
hours.  That made me happy, BUT then I tracked my OHP delivery online,
and Fedex changed their mind about when they'd deliver it, even though
it's on their truck not 20 miles from here... I won't get it till
Wednesday.  sheesh.  ;)

Nancy... maybe you could try using a filler of some kind squeegeed
over the low area, then polished.  I dunno, but maybe some epoxy?  Or
Liquitex modeling paste?  That's great to hear that the plates are
"workable" to some degree.

Jon.. Regarding transporting the plate... my press is about 10 feet
from my Nuark :o))  Regarding the liquitex... i have plenty of that
and lots of experience printing collagraphs using it.  One of the best
and most safe cleaners for oil based inks and paints is cooking oil!
I buy a gallon of it and it goes a long way.  It doesn't harm the
liquitex either.  Sometimes you might have to use a little mineral
spirits at the very end, but not usually much.

OOOOOOOO while I was writing this my aquatint screen was delivered!
OK, I'm going to go
print something... I think I have some Staples brand transparencies somewhere...

Susan

On 2/5/07, Jon Lybrook <jon@terabear.com> wrote:
Hi Susan,

I agree with others on the minimal dry time for the transparency:  2
hours is fine.  Heck, I've burned plates with transparencies directly
off the Epson.  However, 24 hours gives the benefit of added time for
the ink to set, making it less subject to moisture, fingerprints, and
scratching if you plan on transporting it before, or preserving it after
making your plate.

For more creative stuff I've played with acrylic varnish sold by
Liquitex, a thin coating of which will actually create texture but allow
the image to come through with about +/- 50% opacity.

Cleaning the plate afterwards can be sketchy though since most solvents
will eat away at the varnish somewhat.

You can also try scratching the plate and dousing it with water (bleh)
and other chemicals to create effects.  It's not as clean to carve as
linoleum though.

Best wishes,
Jon

SusanV wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm impatiently waiting for my OHP and aquatint screen to arrive so I
> can start testing exposures and digineg output, etc.  (and I just
> realized I'm supposed to wait 24 hours for the neg to dry
> arrrrgggghhhhh ).
>
> So while I'm waiting, I came up with a question for you who work with
> this polymer:  Has anyone tried working on the plate after it's
> exposed and hardened?  Is the material "carvable", or soft enough
> (meaning softer than the steel tool i'd be using), to inscribe or
> otherwise mess with in the way an intagio copper or zinc plate can be
> done?
>
> susan
>



--
Susan Daly Voss
www.dalyvoss.com