RE: Wrinkled Prints
Hi
Henk,
Do you glue just the
sides in order to smooth out the paper (like people do for printmaking), or
do you glue the whole sheet to the aluminium? In the latter case it is wet
mounting then, which I also do for my paintings (except that I glue it to
another piece or rice paper instead of aluminum). Basically what we do is gluing
the whole painted piece to another piece of paper, and then glue the sides of
this doubled sheet to a flat surface and lift it up after it is
dry.
But for more
contemporary effect, maybe I should try to do some real old-style paintings but
mount it to alumnium sheet and see what kind of effect that will give. Should be
pretty interesting.
Dave
Hi Dave,
I use Awagami Unryu , a very thin japanese rice
paper, and just glue it on thin aluminium sheets with rabbit glue; the very
thin papers becomes even a 'shiny' effect from the alu beneath.
maybe that
helps
cheers,
Henk
On 7 feb 2007, at 21:35, Dave Soemarko
wrote:
Rita,
You
can probably try a method used by brush painters (who also use rice paper)
and printermakers: after you air dry the paper a little bit, you put paste
around the paper (or some used gummed tapes) and paste the paper on
something flat (a wall or formica tabletop) works very nicely. As the
paper continue to dry, it will shrink but the edges are held by the paste,
so you will end up with drum-tight paper, very very smooth and nice. I do
that with my brush paintings, but I saw the same technique used in
printmaking department too.
But
then you have to cut the sides of the paper, which I don't know if that is
ok for your case.
Dave
S
From:
Ritab19106@aol.com
[mailto:Ritab19106@aol.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2007 12:05 PM
To:
alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject:
Wrinkled Prints
Hello,
I
am applying silver emulsion (liquid light) to Japanese paper. I have
posted in the past about myriad problems and have appreciated all the
helpful suggestions.
My
latest problem is that the prints dry (after typical darkroom processing)
with many wrinkles. A few wrinkles are lovely, and contribute to the
three dimensional look I am seeking, but when the piece of (otherwise
beautiul) paper is completely crinkled, it is both unattractive and makes
the image hard to read.
I
have had this problem much more frequently lately, so I'm guessing it is
related to the increased forced hot air heating (and low humidity) now
that we're having a deep freeze on the East Coast.
Here's
what I've tried so far: after squeegee-ing the prints, I lay them on
screens and surround the edges with little stones to keep the whole
print from curling up. After they dry a little bit, I put
pellon around the prints, and then weight them down with a few
books. They never completely dry in the pellon, but when they are
only a little damp, I move them to blotters for the final drying.
The result is better than if I left the prints on the screens for the
entire time, but still pretty lousy.
I
do have a dry mount press, but I'm guessing the heat would destroy the
emulsion, and when I use the press cold, all it does is flatten the
creases, not restore the paper to a smoother state.
I
do have a humidifier that operates with my home heating system, though I'm
not sure it generates much moisture. Would a free standing
humidifier in the darkroom be a good idea?
I'd
be grateful for any advice.
Rita
B
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