U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Wrinkled Prints

Re: Wrinkled Prints




On 8 feb 2007, at 17:31, Dave Soemarko wrote:

Hi Henk,
 
Do you glue just the sides in order to smooth out the paper (like people do for printmaking), or do you glue the whole sheet to the aluminium? In the latter case it is wet mounting then, which I also do for my paintings (except that I glue it to another piece or rice paper instead of aluminum). Basically what we do is gluing the whole painted piece to another piece of paper, and then glue the sides of this doubled sheet to a flat surface and lift it up after it is dry.
 

I 'coat' both with the rabbit glue: the alu-sheet and the rice-paper . In the beginning it is a bit of a mess, but that was also true when i started alt-process.
Cheers,
Henk

But for more contemporary effect, maybe I should try to do some real old-style paintings but mount it to alumnium sheet and see what kind of effect that will give. Should be pretty interesting.
 
 
Dave

From: henk thijs [mailto:henk.thijs@hetnet.nl]
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 11:16 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: Wrinkled Prints


Hi Dave,
I use Awagami Unryu , a very thin japanese rice paper, and just glue it on thin aluminium sheets with rabbit glue; the very thin papers becomes even a 'shiny' effect from the alu beneath.
maybe that helps
cheers,
Henk

On 7 feb 2007, at 21:35, Dave Soemarko wrote:

Rita,
 
You can probably try a method used by brush painters (who also use rice paper) and printermakers: after you air dry the paper a little bit, you put paste around the paper (or some used gummed tapes) and paste the paper on something flat (a wall or formica tabletop) works very nicely. As the paper continue to dry, it will shrink but the edges are held by the paste, so you will end up with drum-tight paper, very very smooth and nice. I do that with my brush paintings, but I saw the same technique used in printmaking department too.
 
But then you have to cut the sides of the paper, which I don't know if that is ok for your case.
 
 
Dave S
 

From: Ritab19106@aol.com [mailto:Ritab19106@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 12:05 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Wrinkled Prints


Hello,
 
I am applying silver emulsion (liquid light) to Japanese paper.  I have posted in the past about myriad problems and have appreciated all the helpful suggestions.
 
My latest problem is that the prints dry (after typical darkroom processing) with many wrinkles.  A few wrinkles are lovely, and contribute to the three dimensional look I am seeking, but when the piece of (otherwise beautiul) paper is completely crinkled, it is both unattractive and makes the image hard to read.
 
I have had this problem much more frequently lately, so I'm guessing it is related to the increased forced hot air heating (and low humidity) now that we're having a deep freeze on the East Coast.
 
Here's what I've tried so far:  after squeegee-ing the prints, I lay them on screens and surround the edges with little stones to keep the whole print from curling up.  After they dry a little bit, I put  pellon around the prints, and then weight them down with a few books.  They never completely dry in the pellon, but when they are only a little damp, I move them to blotters for the final drying.  The result is better than if I left the prints on the screens for the entire time, but still pretty lousy.
 
I do have a dry mount press, but I'm guessing the heat would destroy the emulsion, and when I use the press cold, all it does is flatten the creases, not restore the paper to a smoother state.
 
I do have a humidifier that operates with my home heating system, though I'm not sure it generates much moisture.  Would a free standing humidifier in the darkroom be a good idea?
 
I'd be grateful for any advice.
 
Rita B
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