Re: Wrinkled Prints
Rabbit, or equivalent, made from skin & bones is not easy to replace by other glues for the purpose i use it.
I glue the thin rice papers on the backside of used offset sheets, and then continue the preparation for oilprint or gum the way i do for paper (so it is important that there is no problem to put it in water for hours without coming off the alu-sheet; a side effect is the registration of the neg.) , but i also use the same sheets for glicee-printing and there the rabbit glue is essential, not only for sticking it to the alu-sheet but more important as a coating to make it suitable for inkjetprinting with pigment ink. Cheap and astonishing. Just a stable printer is necessary, like the Epson 1270.
In a week time i will put some results on my website, preparing a show end march.
Cheers,
Henk
On 8 feb 2007, at 19:00, Dave Soemarko wrote:
Rita,
Rabbit glue is literally glue made from rabbit skin, but you can use any water soluble glue including gum. For paintings, we use paste made from starch (arrowroot or corn starch is fine). If you are not going to use the board as final support and will remove the print, then any glue will work.
Dave
Ritab19106@aol.com [mailto:Ritab19106@aol.com]
Thursday, February 08, 2007 11:43 AM
alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Re: Wrinkled Prints
In a message dated 2/8/2007 11:23:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, henk.thijs@hetnet.nl writes:
I use Awagami Unryu , a very thin japanese rice paper, and just glue it
on thin aluminium sheets with rabbit glue; the very thin papers becomes
even a 'shiny' effect from the alu beneath.
Henk and Dave,
A very interesting suggestion. But what...um...is rabbit glue? Will wet prints stick with rabbit glue (do you affix them after processing, which, in my case, is traditional wet silver processing)? And what's a good source for aluminum sheets?
I like the idea of the "shiny" effect, because drying in pellon or blotters seems to really dull the blacks in the prints.
Thanks,
Rita
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