Mark,
Thanks for asking the question. I've been puzzled by what BoxCar sells (KM73) since I haven't seen a Printight KM73 on Toyobo's Website.
I get my Printight KM43 plates directly from Toyobo. I'm assuming the only difference is that the KM73 is thicker than the KM43, and for me the plates from Toyobo are cheaper. I've found the thickness of the plates I use just fine, and the blacks deep and rich, but I think I'll still give the KM73 plates a try and see what the slightly thicker plate is like.
Here's the comparison:
From Box Car:
Printight KM73
face relief: .019"
thickness: .029
surface: smooth
hardness 65
A2: $35
From Toyobo:
Printight KM43
Total Thickness: 0.43mm/0.017"
Relief thickness: 0.20mm/.008
Support base: Steel Plate
Standard Size A2/S-13
I get an educational discount on these plates, which makes them cheaper than those from Box Car.
Nancy
Jon Lybrook wrote:
Hi
Mark,
The "EcoEtch" plate from Box Car Press I mentioned is the Toyobo (model
KM73) plate. "EcoEtch for Photogravure" is their internal name for it
at Box Car Press. I believe it is the same plate Keith was talking
about too. We discussed different sources for the plate, Box Car Press
being the most affordable I've found.
I've read references to other Toyobo plates here too, but I'm not sure
what they are about or how they differ from the KM73. That plate has
come recommended by several people on this list besides me, and in at
least one book I've read.
Thickness of the plate impacts the depth of the dot/holes one can
create in the plate. Presumably the deeper the dot, the more ink one
can wipe in to the plate, and the more ink that gets in the more comes
out, on to your print.
If you're into relief printing, or the effect of open bite, the thicker
the polymer, the deeper the relief lines can be as well. I probably
wouldn't use the KM73 for that kind of work, since the polymer is
relatively thin. I've not had problems getting deep, rich blacks once
the exposure time has been established (and using Charbonnel Carbon
Black ink), however.
Hope that helps clarify some of the confusion.
Cheers,
Jon
D. Mark Andrews wrote:
Was just reading through my stockpile of list
emails on this topic and found
myself a bit confused. It I'm following correctly, I have these options
for
making photopolymer plates that are "developed" using water:
Solarplate (This is the plate I've been toying with)
Dan Welden
Printight (Keith Taylor's recommendation)
Toyobo
Printight DF
Toyobo
EcoEtch KM73 (Jon Lybrook's recommendation)
Boxcar Press
Also, I get that the plate base thickness factors into the depth of
etching,
but not sure how. Can anyone enlighten me?
Mark
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