Re: Satista question
After development you need to wash the print with running water
before clearing and sometimes, according tp the water pH you get
different color result.
If you don't wash carefully you may have some bleeding.
Le 19 mars 07 à 19:01, Loris Medici a écrit :
OK, I just made my first try:
10 drops AFO + 1 drop Li2[PdCl4] with 4% AgNO3 developer on Weston
1. I guess thin papers like Weston aren't suitable for this
process; they become wavy and this even development difficult.
2. Quite a lot printout (but not complete); probably because I used
a lot of Pd..
3. This paper definitely doesn't like a second development pass -
it bleeds incredibly in the second past.
Philippe, not I understand the point in your warning: one should be
careful in both development and first wash -> because of possible
4. Development was uneven.
5. I like the color and Dmax with the above stated coating solution.
6. It's a messy process.
1. Use thick, dimensionally stable papers.
2. Do the development in just one pass and do it as slow as you
can. (That is for even development with good Dmax)
Will share more information as soon as I have time to make another
----- Quoting myself -----
Thanks Philippe. But, to what should I pay attention? I plan to use 2%
Citric Acid as wash water before toning - that's what I do with my POP
Pd, Vandyke and Argyrotype prints...
From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com]
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Satista question
You need some pd or pt to get image but you can go down to 1 drop
pd for a 8x10 print. First washing after development is very
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 16:13:52 +0200
De: Loris Medici <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sujet: RE: Satista question
Thanks Marek. I'll have to use Pd then, since I have very little
(>10ml) Pt solution. If 1 drop of Li2[PdCl4] per 25-30 drops of
is enough for a print with good Dmax that's fine for me... (I
don't care much about the color right now -> will tone the image
What are the effects of playing with solution strenghts? For
instance, can I use 40% AFO for faster printing times? Should I
also change the 4% AgNO3 solution strength accordingly? Will using
a stronger sensitizer give me better/stronger Dmax? How is Satista
Dmax compared to POP (or
DOP) Palladium prints? What can you say about the characteristic
of the paper? I guess it will need digital negatives with less
curves adjustment -> due to lack of print-out...
From: Marek Matusz [mailto:email@example.com]
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: Satista question
I tried omitting platinum form the formula for satista prints and
it did not work. No image was formed with exposure times similar
to what I
have worked for satista process. I do not have my notes handy at
the moment, but I can check later of what noble metals I have
tried. I vaguely remember tryig palladium and gold as a noble
metal sensitizer for the process. Platinum works the best and that
is what I mostly use.
I'll get back to you later on this. Marek
From: Loris Medici <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Satista question
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:32:44 +0200
Hi all, I have a question for Satista printers (Marek M? Philippe A?
I want to try Satista prints for sake of economy -> I have little
Pt and Pd on hands (which I can't obtain in Istanbul - have to
import; I real PIA with current customs regulations) but I can buy
AgNO3 and K[AuCl4] locally - at very low cost... Question is: Do I
strictly need any Pt or Pd salt for making Satista prints (I guess
they fuction as catalysts rather than image-forming substances)?
Can I make good Satista prints w/o using any noble metal salt, by
just using Ammonium Iron(III) Oxalate as sensitizer and AgNO3 as
Thanks in advance,