Re: gum print on glass
Excellent, Marek; thanks for report; it makes me want to get back to
my experiments with that.
The back-exposed print on glass that I reported most recently was
done with no sub and stuck very well, but it was so overexposed (due
to double dose of dichromate without adjusting exposure) that it
needed some forced development to bring the image out, and I got
impatient with brushing it gently with a soft brush and picked up a
much stiffer brush and used it too aggressively and scrubbed the
emulsion right off the glass. A subsequent trial was a complete
failure; the gum didn't stick to the glass at all.
If you don't mind my asking, what's the silicone material you're
using for a sub?
Katharine
On Aug 28, 2007, at 11:18 AM, Marek Matusz wrote:
All,
I was finaly able do do some gum printing on glass with back
exposure. First of all gum does not stick on glass in my practice,
so I took advice from some earlier suggestions and looked for the
silicone subbing agent that I had for a while but never used on
anything. After I subbed the glass I just poured gum/pigment
dichromate mixture on the plate and let it dry. I poured a very
thick layer, totally opaque to the transmitted light. It took
several hours to dry and it is a big hassle since it needs to stay
levelled for a long time (and in the dark). I exposed through the
back of the glass in full sun for 1 to 2 minutes. These were faily
dense negatives and by no means optimised for the process. I could
likely make decent palladium prints with these. The development was
nice to follow and fairly quick as gum starting to dissove from the
top revealing image underneath. This felt and worked exactly like
carbon printing. The tonality of the imafe is excellent with no
graininess. The image sticks to the subbed glass quite nicely as
well. No problems with flaking or loosing parts of it. I am now
experimenting with carbon on glass with back exposure. Stay tuned.
Marek
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