U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: gum print on glass

Re: gum print on glass

Excellent, Marek; thanks for report; it makes me want to get back to my experiments with that.

The back-exposed print on glass that I reported most recently was done with no sub and stuck very well, but it was so overexposed (due to double dose of dichromate without adjusting exposure) that it needed some forced development to bring the image out, and I got impatient with brushing it gently with a soft brush and picked up a much stiffer brush and used it too aggressively and scrubbed the emulsion right off the glass. A subsequent trial was a complete failure; the gum didn't stick to the glass at all.

If you don't mind my asking, what's the silicone material you're using for a sub?


On Aug 28, 2007, at 11:18 AM, Marek Matusz wrote:

I was finaly able do do some gum printing on glass with back exposure. First of all gum does not stick on glass in my practice, so I took advice from some earlier suggestions and looked for the silicone subbing agent that I had for a while but never used on anything. After I subbed the glass I just poured gum/pigment dichromate mixture on the plate and let it dry. I poured a very thick layer, totally opaque to the transmitted light. It took several hours to dry and it is a big hassle since it needs to stay levelled for a long time (and in the dark). I exposed through the back of the glass in full sun for 1 to 2 minutes. These were faily dense negatives and by no means optimised for the process. I could likely make decent palladium prints with these. The development was nice to follow and fairly quick as gum starting to dissove from the top revealing image underneath. This felt and worked exactly like carbon printing. The tonality of the imafe is excellent with no graininess. The image sticks to the subbed glass quite nicely as well. No problems with flaking or loosing parts of it. I am now experimenting with carbon on glass with back exposure. Stay tuned.

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