U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: gum print on glass

Re: gum print on glass

Katharine Thayer wrote:
Thanks, Marek. I've tried that; for whatever reason it never worked very well for me. Glad it works for you.

On Aug 28, 2007, at 3:10 PM, Marek Matusz wrote:

It was 3-amonipropyltriethoxysilane. I am not sure about the origin of the sample as I had a solution of it that I got somewhere. I think this might be the same stuff that B&S sells. It takes very, very little to treat the glass.

> Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:42:16 -0700
> From: kthayer@pacifier.com
> Subject: Re: gum print on glass
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Excellent, Marek; thanks for report; it makes me want to get back to
> my experiments with that
> The back-exposed print on glass that I reported most recently was
> done with no sub and stuck very well, but it was so overexposed (due
> to double dose of dichromate without adjusting exposure) that it
> needed some forced development to bring the image out, and I got
> impatient with brushing it gently with a soft brush and picked up a
> much stiffer brush and used it too aggressively and scrubbed the
> emulsion right off the glass. A subsequent trial was a complete
> failure; the gum didn't stick to the glass at all.
> If you don't mind my asking, what's the silicone material you're
> using for a sub?
> Katharine
> On Aug 28, 2007, at 11:18 AM, Marek Matusz wrote:
> >
> >
> > All,
> > I was finaly able do do some gum printing on glass with back
> > exposure. First of all gum does not stick on glass in my practice,
> > so I took advice from some earlier suggestions and looked for the
> > silicone subbing agent that I had for a while but never used on
> > anything. After I subbed the glass I just poured gum/pigment
> > dichromate mixture on the plate and let it dry. I poured a very
> > thick layer, totally opaque to the transmitted light. It took
> > several hours to dry and it is a big hassle since it needs to stay
> > levelled for a long time (and in the dark). I exposed through the
> > back of the glass in full sun for 1 to 2 minutes. These were faily
> > dense negatives and by no means optimised for the process. I could
> > likely make decent palladium prints with these. The development was
> > nice to follow and fairly quick as gum starting to dissove from the
> > top revealing image underneath. This felt and worked exactly like
> > carbon printing. The tonality of the imafe is excellent with no
> > graininess. The image sticks to the subbed glass quite nicely as
> > well. No problems with flaking or loosing parts of it. I am now
> > experimenting with carbon on glass with back exposure. Stay tuned.
> > Marek
> >
> > See what you’re getting into…before you go there See it!

New home for Mom, no cleanup required. All starts here.

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried aggresively cleaning glass, a la Bon Ami (an old gilders trick) to get it absolutely clean, in the past I have always had issues with gelatin sizing not sticking to glass unless I scrubbed it very aggressively (it won't scratch the glass).

Alas, no call for window or door gilding these days, and I'm not that old to be feeling like an old-timer.