Re: Liquitex etc.
Just a comment from one who has done a lot of varnishing, doors, chairs,
tables, armoirs etc. Use a paint thinner to "thin" the varnish; makes
it more "liquid"; on furniture, it gets into all the cracks and joints.
Regular varnish will just cover over the joint or crack. You'll may
have to apply several coats. I don't use an inkjet printer, so I don't
know how the ink will react and what the absorption rate of the paper
is. You'll have to try. I'll trying it with some silver halide prints I
just made. I'll see what happens. Curious to see how fiber paper reacts.
Waxing is good also.
Judy Seigel wrote:
On Tue, 22 Jan 2008, henk thijs wrote:
That's really intriguing Henk... a couple of questions: (I tried heavy
liquitex varnish today -- admittedly I did a clumsy coating, but it
anyway ruined the (inkjet) print....( The thickness of the "varnish"
seemed to destroy contrast and blur edges -- it didn't seem that way
while coating, but when dry.... yuck !)
In that case just print on transparent material and stick it to a
white -or else- barrier :
When you say "clear plastic sheets," that could be .... what? Where do
you get them? Are they made for inkjet, or some other purpose?
I use some clear plastic sheets , coat twice with rabbit glue (!),
flip the image , fill the cartridges with pigment ink, print on the
transparent, let dry, fixatif , and then glue -the side where the ink
is- to whatever you want (dependent on this you can influence the
final result); and believe me : it is really shining :-)
I take it the plastic is very shiny... but you print on it with inkjet?
Will any inkjet printer do this, or only certain ones (or one)? Or,
wait a minute -- you're printing on the rabbit skin glue, not directly
on the shiny plastic? ? ?
Anyway, sounds very ingenious... and much better than cutting glass...
Thanks in advance...
Maybe you can avoid the coating yourself by using inkjet-transparent
material, but i have no experience with this.
But a question for Henk: You said for inkjet you spray lightly
before applying varnish... I take it that's because the ink might run
so you more or less "set" it first? My particular inkjet ink doesn't
seem to run if it's on paper (as opposed to plastic) & allowed to
dry, but pre-fix sounds like a good idea anyway.
yes, correct; depending what ink you use -dye or pigment- and the
paper , it is better to stick it first with some GHIANT FIXATIF (
It's probably no big deal to throw out some "stinky" varnish that's
growing things, but I'm trying to remember what I used to put a drop
or two of in the top of a jar of liquitex paint that was growing
mold. It may have been a much diluted formaldehyde. I'll look around
the studio & see if inspiration strikes--- sometimes things come back
when you go on auto-pilot.
(As when I forgot my ATM PIN number -- not as braindead as it seems,
because I hadn't used it in years, since I was banking elsewhere,
etc. etc. etc. But finally I had to go to the bank IN PERSON and
have the old one -- which they evidently can't or won't access --
killed & think up a new one. And then I went to the machine for the
transaction -- and incredibly -- or not so incredibly -- while I was
going through the motions, suddenly a voice in my head sang along
with the OLD PIN number.... )
But as I was saying, so far I'm thinking formaldehyde... If you can
get it of course. Maybe the same friendly undertaker who supplies the
Meanwhile, thanks again...
Montréal, Québec firstname.lastname@example.org
"I bear witness"