U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: Liquitex etc.

Re: Liquitex etc.



Hi,

Just a comment from one who has done a lot of varnishing, doors, chairs, tables, armoirs etc. Use a paint thinner to "thin" the varnish; makes it more "liquid"; on furniture, it gets into all the cracks and joints. Regular varnish will just cover over the joint or crack. You'll may have to apply several coats. I don't use an inkjet printer, so I don't know how the ink will react and what the absorption rate of the paper is. You'll have to try. I'll trying it with some silver halide prints I just made. I'll see what happens. Curious to see how fiber paper reacts.

Waxing is good also.

Cheers,
Bogdan



Judy Seigel wrote:

On Tue, 22 Jan 2008, henk thijs wrote:

That's really intriguing Henk... a couple of questions: (I tried heavy liquitex varnish today -- admittedly I did a clumsy coating, but it anyway ruined the (inkjet) print....( The thickness of the "varnish" seemed to destroy contrast and blur edges -- it didn't seem that way while coating, but when dry.... yuck !)


In that case just print on transparent material and stick it to a white -or else- barrier :

When you say "clear plastic sheets," that could be .... what? Where do you get them? Are they made for inkjet, or some other purpose?


I use some clear plastic sheets , coat twice with rabbit glue (!), flip the image , fill the cartridges with pigment ink, print on the transparent, let dry, fixatif , and then glue -the side where the ink is- to whatever you want (dependent on this you can influence the final result); and believe me : it is really shining :-)

I take it the plastic is very shiny... but you print on it with inkjet? Will any inkjet printer do this, or only certain ones (or one)? Or, wait a minute -- you're printing on the rabbit skin glue, not directly on the shiny plastic? ? ?

Anyway, sounds very ingenious... and much better than cutting glass... Thanks in advance...

Judy

Maybe you can avoid the coating yourself by using inkjet-transparent material, but i have no experience with this.

cheers,
Henk


But a question for Henk: You said for inkjet you spray lightly before applying varnish... I take it that's because the ink might run so you more or less "set" it first? My particular inkjet ink doesn't seem to run if it's on paper (as opposed to plastic) & allowed to dry, but pre-fix sounds like a good idea anyway.

yes, correct; depending what ink you use -dye or pigment- and the paper , it is better to stick it first with some GHIANT FIXATIF ( http://www.ghiant.com/our-brands/computers/inktjet-fix/ )




It's probably no big deal to throw out some "stinky" varnish that's growing things, but I'm trying to remember what I used to put a drop or two of in the top of a jar of liquitex paint that was growing mold. It may have been a much diluted formaldehyde. I'll look around the studio & see if inspiration strikes--- sometimes things come back when you go on auto-pilot.

(As when I forgot my ATM PIN number -- not as braindead as it seems, because I hadn't used it in years, since I was banking elsewhere, etc. etc. etc. But finally I had to go to the bank IN PERSON and have the old one -- which they evidently can't or won't access -- killed & think up a new one. And then I went to the machine for the transaction -- and incredibly -- or not so incredibly -- while I was going through the motions, suddenly a voice in my head sang along with the OLD PIN number.... )

But as I was saying, so far I'm thinking formaldehyde... If you can get it of course. Maybe the same friendly undertaker who supplies the cremains?

Meanwhile, thanks again...

Judy


--
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  Bogdan Karasek
  Montréal, Québec                     bogdan@bogdanphoto.com
  Canada                               www.bogdanphoto.com

                     "I bear witness"
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