U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | RE: Liquitex etc.

RE: Liquitex etc.

Check out the varnish that is sold by breathing color.  I have used it on
paper, which was then mounted to a panel, which can be glued down with the
same stuff frome breathing color.  After that, I have used envirotexlite, an
epoxy and coated the panel.  Envirotex can only be used on a hard surface.
It's poured on, then allowed to set for 24 to 48 hours.  It will give you a
finish much like 40 coats of varnish but is clear, no yellowing, and no
blurring.  There is a learning curve, but it is an eye catching result.  I
don't know about artistic, but my clients seem to like it. Feel free to
contact me if you have any questions.

-----Original Message-----
From: Judy Seigel [mailto:jseigel@panix.com]
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 3:07 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: Liquitex etc.

Thanks Bogdan,

A brief PS about my abortive Liquitex on inkjet -- on the print, not the
frame.  I'd used several coats of mat varnish. When thorougly dry it
proved to be not only very paled out, but blurred.

Of course it reprinted in just minutes on the inkjet printer, looking
as good as new.  I'm trying to avoid having to cut little pieces of glass
for a frame.  (Next I'll try gloss Liquitex, only 1 coat, then a "regular"
petroleum-based commercial varnish, but maybe I should go right to...


On Thu, 24 Jan 2008, Bogdan Karasek wrote:

> Hi,
> Just a comment from one who has done a lot of varnishing, doors, chairs,
> tables, armoirs etc.  Use a paint thinner to "thin" the varnish; makes it
> more "liquid"; on furniture, it gets into all the cracks and joints.
> varnish will just cover over the joint or crack.  You'll may have to apply
> several coats.  I don't use an inkjet printer, so I don't know how the ink
> will react and what the absorption rate of the paper is.  You'll have to
> I'll trying it with some silver halide prints I just made.  I'll see what
> happens.  Curious to see how fiber paper reacts.
> Waxing is good also.
> Cheers,
> Bogdan
> Judy Seigel wrote:
>> On Tue, 22 Jan 2008, henk thijs wrote:
>> That's really intriguing Henk... a couple of questions:  (I tried heavy
>> liquitex varnish today -- admittedly I did a clumsy coating, but it
>> ruined the (inkjet) print....( The thickness of the "varnish" seemed to
>> destroy contrast and blur edges -- it didn't seem that way while coating,
>> but when dry.... yuck !)
>>> In that case just print on transparent material and stick it to a white
>>> -or else- barrier :
>> When you say "clear plastic sheets," that could be .... what?  Where do
>> get them?  Are they made for inkjet, or some other purpose?
>>> I use some clear plastic sheets , coat twice with rabbit glue (!), flip
>>> the image , fill the cartridges with pigment ink, print on the
>>> transparent, let dry, fixatif , and then glue -the side where the ink
>>> to whatever you want (dependent on this you can influence the final
>>> result); and believe me : it is really shining :-)
>> I take it the plastic is very shiny... but you print on it with inkjet?
>> Will any inkjet printer do this, or only certain ones (or one)?  Or, wait
>> minute -- you're printing on the rabbit skin glue, not directly on the
>> shiny plastic? ? ?
>> Anyway, sounds very ingenious... and much better than cutting glass...
>> Thanks in advance...
>> Judy
>>> Maybe you can avoid the coating yourself by using inkjet-transparent
>>> material, but i have no experience with this.
>>> cheers,
>>> Henk
>>>> But a question for Henk:  You said for inkjet you spray lightly before
>>>> applying varnish... I take it that's because the ink might run so you
>>>> more or less "set" it first?  My particular inkjet ink doesn't seem to
>>>> run if it's on paper (as opposed to plastic) & allowed to dry, but
>>>> pre-fix sounds like a good idea anyway.
>>> yes, correct; depending what ink you use -dye or pigment- and the paper
>>> it is better to stick it first with some GHIANT FIXATIF (
>>> http://www.ghiant.com/our-brands/computers/inktjet-fix/ )
>>>> It's probably no big deal to throw out some "stinky" varnish that's
>>>> growing things, but I'm trying to remember what I used to put a drop or
>>>> two of in the top of a jar of liquitex paint that was growing mold. It
>>>> may have been a much diluted formaldehyde.  I'll look around the studio
>>>> see if inspiration strikes--- sometimes things come back when you go on
>>>> auto-pilot.
>>>> (As when I forgot my ATM PIN number -- not as braindead as it seems,
>>>> because I hadn't used it in years, since I was banking elsewhere, etc.
>>>> etc. etc.  But finally I had to go to the bank IN PERSON and have the
>>>> one -- which they evidently can't or won't access -- killed & think up
>>>> new one. And then I went to the machine for the transaction -- and
>>>> incredibly -- or not so incredibly -- while I was going through the
>>>> motions, suddenly a voice in my head sang along with the OLD PIN
>>>> number.... )
>>>> But as I was saying, so far I'm thinking formaldehyde... If you can get
>>>> it of course. Maybe the same friendly undertaker who supplies the
>>>> cremains?
>>>> Meanwhile, thanks again...
>>>> Judy
> --
> ________________________________________________________________
>  Bogdan Karasek
>  Montréal, Québec                     bogdan@bogdanphoto.com
>  Canada                               www.bogdanphoto.com
>                     "I bear witness"
> ________________________________________________________________