Re: Cyanotype Redux
I agree, Henry--my exposures are 6-12 minutes, 6 for 1:1 on
regular paper. I wonder if this bleeding is not, in fact,
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: Henry Rattle <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: Cyanotype Redux
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 19:15:33 +0000
>Brian - I'm intrigued by your lightbox that gives such
>short exposures for traditional cyanotype. My own (paper
>about 5 inches from a bank of 20-watt BL tubes) gives a PDN
>standard printing time of 21 minutes. It would be nice if
>it were less!
>On 3/3/08 17:45, "firstname.lastname@example.org"
>> Hi Brian
>> If not rod coating I use a brush similar to the Richeson
>> ( a Da Vinci) and have never had any problems. I do use a
>> little tween and my favourite paper is Aquarelle Arches
>> hot pressed for cyanotypes. I have tried different ratios
>of A and B but always revert back to the regular 1:1 mix. I
>> have used foam brushes in the past and not found it
>> abrasive but I kept getting streaks in the developed
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Brian Pawlowski [mailto:email@example.com]
>> Sent: 03 March 2008 17:31
>> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
>> Subject: Cyanotype Redux
>> It can't POSSIBLY be this...
>> I mentioned a while back problems with runoff with
>> Cyanotype. I've tried a few papers over a long time -
>> and was finally trying Crane's Weston Diploma Parchment.
>> I kept getting a lot of run off and bleeding into
>> highlights. I did get a PH meter after someone commented
>> on Bay Area water (mine reads about 8.3) - so I
>> consistently acidify (very very dilute hydrochloric acid
>- pool chemistry - cheap). I follow Sam Wang's advice
>> through Mark Nelson to clear inverted. I am using
>> Classic Cyanotype - went from 1:1 Solution A to Solution
>> B to 3:2 - but then as my highlight bleeding problems
>plagued me I went back 1:1 (and with a new UV box my
>> exposures are 1m 50s even at 1:1).
>> But Judy Seigel sent me a note along the lines of "This
>> is a really simple process. Why are you using a hake
>> brush - use a foam brush. Etc."
>> I went to Home Depot, and picked up a couple cheap black
>> foam brushes with wooden handles. After several back and
>> forth tests, I'm concluding the foam brush outperforms
>> the hake and Richeson brushes for my cyanotypes - I'm
>> getting virtually *no* runoff - whereas before it looked
>> like a Smurf took a bath in the tray.
>> Can it *really* be that simple? The foam brush moves more
>> roughly across the paper surface. Kevin Sullivan in an
>> e-mail sometime back when I made a comment about runoff
>> on COT 320 said it might be necessary to rough up the
>> surface (to break the sizing?) on very smooth papers like
>> COT 320.
>> Anybody want to weigh in on this? I've been mostly
>> running calibration sheets (step tablets for PDN work).
>> I'll probably do a few prints later.
>> My only concern is that the foam brush will abrade the
>> surface of the paper too much with resulting loss of
>> image detail (on the other hand - cyanotype running off
>> willy nilly and bleeding into highlights suck).
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