Re: Kodachrome/mold

[Richard Knoppow <dickburk@ix.netcom.com>]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Christina Z. Anderson" <zphoto@montana.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kodachrome/mold


> >     Kodak's recommendation for mold removal is to use dry 
> > isopropyl alcohol but only on the emulsion side. There 
> > are better solvents for dirt, if you can find them, such 
> > as 1,1,1,trichlorethane, now hard to find because it is 
> > an envrionmental hazard.
> Richard,
> Is this the same as trichlorethylene?  If so, Home Depot 
> or hardware stores sells it under the brand name of 
> Sunnyvale or Sunnyside or whatnot, only about $23 a 
> gallon.
>
> I use it for hand coloring BW prints--it is the same as 
> Marlene solution sold in Marshall's kits, but a heck of a 
> lot less expensive.  David Lewis uses it to clean his 
> bromoil brushes because it leaves no residue.  Outside, of 
> course.  But don't store in styrofoam--it'll eat right 
> through the bottom.  It is apparently the same stuff used 
> in dry cleaning or some such thing.
> Chris
   Its not the same but I'm not a good enough chemist to 
explain the difference in practical use, if any. Other 
chemicals have been used as film cleaners in the past but 
the ones that worked best all seem to be either serious 
environmental poluters or quite toxic, maybe both. Mold is a 
special case because its very hard to get rid of. There is 
some literature on concervation sites like the Concervation 
On Line site, but if you have much material, or if what you 
have is of significant value, I think you need to talk to a 
professional conservator for advice. Whatever technique is 
used must not do further damage to either the emulsion or 
support. Molds exude chemicals as part of their metabolism 
which are capaple of damaging whatever the mold is living on 
and that damage may not be recoverable.

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com