U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | Re: solarplate prints

Re: solarplate prints

Hi Linda. Thank you for your feedback. I am geared up to print pictorico on my 3800. One 
question. What sort of exposure times were you looking at, just as a ballpark? Should I 
expect to be testing at a range of, say, 1 minute to 15 mins, or did yours tend to fall in a 
certain range? 


On 23 Sep 2008 at 10:51, Linda Stinchfield wrote:

Date sent:      	Tue, 23 Sep 2008 10:51:05 -0700
From:           	Linda Stinchfield <linda@turtlesilk.com>
Subject:        	Re: solarplate prints
To:             	alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Send reply to:  	alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca

> Hello Mike,
> I just took a 3-day workshop from Dan Welden. I think one reason you  
> haven't had good feedback on inkjet negs from him is that he really  
> isn't into printing from photographs. He prefers working abstractly,  
> directly on the plate or on acetate with ink. I, on the other hand,  
> really wanted to work from my manipulated photos-- and did. I printed  
> my transparencies on Pictorico transparency film, using the Photoshop  
> print setting that gave me the densest black. (That seems to vary  
> depending on PS version and printer.) Dan said my transparencies were  
> great-- and indeed they printed well.
> A couple of things to remember:
> 	- If you are making a relief print (not too likely from a  
> photograph, I guess), you would produce a film neg; if you are  
> printing intaglio, you need a film positive.
> 	- For an intaglio print, you need to expose your plate using an  
> aquatint screen as a separate step-- otherwise you get open bite in  
> the blackest area. Dan showed us some images from earlier students  
> where the resulting plate wipe was an interesting effect, but it's  
> generally not desirable to lose your black areas.
> 	- For intaglio prints, I've been converting my Photoshop files to  
> Bitmap, based on the process outlined in Christina Anderson's book,  
> Alternative Processes Condensed, pg. 114, Method 1. (Even then, I  
> found I didn't have any dot in the blackest areas, so I started  
> adding a top layer of 10% opacity white in Photoshop before  
> converting to Bitmap. With Dan's solarplates and the aquatint screen,  
> that doesn't seem to be necessary. With regular photopolymer plates  
> from Boxcar, I think it helps to do the extra layer, even with the  
> screen.)
> I hope that's a help. I can send more info from my notes, if you have  
> questions.
> Best,
> Linda S.
> On Sep 23, 2008, at 1:01 AM, Michael Healy wrote:
> > I've got access to a press, and want to do solarplate prints from  
> > digital images. Can anyone
> > offer some pointers on the appropriate substrate? I've consulted  
> > Welden without success.
> > He talks about many aspects but not about the inkjet digineg  
> > (positive, of course) medium.
> >
> > Mike Healy