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Hi Marek
Do you add each layer on a different day?. Does that
mean 5 or more magenta nights in a row, or do you cycle though the
colours? Too many straight cyan nights for example might be bad for
one's equilibrium.
Also I guess your system of work means each layer of a
given colour is exactly the same. I should perhaps acknowledge that my own
colour IQ on the recent test was quite spectacular in some parts of the spectrum
- I achieved virtual skyscrapers for
my blue/green discrimination.
Don Sweet
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 2:07
PM
Subject: RE: Stock Paint:Gum
Solutions?
Loris,
I found that using stock solutions is the way to go
to get consistency. As Chris noted modern organic pigments do not separate and
stay suspended in gum solutions forever, just a little shake and you are ready
to go.
My thalo blue stock is 15 ml tube (Daniel Smith) to 150 cc of gum.
Magenta, which is quinacridone rose (PV19) is 1 tube to 120 cc of gum, my
standard yellow now is PY150 and it is 1 tube to 300 cc of gum. I have to say
I did not use PY151 that you mention and Daniel Smith does not carry it. Most
of other colors that I use require about 150cc of gum for proper balance.
ANother color that is very strong is PR254 (Ferrari red), I have a stock of 1
tube to 300 cc. If you do not want to mix that much stock you can mix it with
150 and at 1 part of gum for printing. I add 0.3 to 0.5 part of
saturated ammonium dichromate to 1 part of gum/pigment. I found no compelling
reason to add more and then wash it down the sink. I add 1 part of water for 1
part of gum. This dictates the thickness of gum in a finished
print and would change somewhat depending on paper absorbency. Lastly, I
measure my gum solution and pour the exact amount for a given negative size,
for eample 8.5x11 requires 3cc of sensitizer for my paper (Fabriano
Artistico).
If you have 10 prints to do just mix a batch and measure a
predetermined amount for each print. My workflow is to do a single colour is a
session, which is 2-3 hours and allows for 8 to 12 prints. So tonight is
magenta night.
You do have very similar cyan and magents dilutions and as I
noted I did not ever use your yellow. I seems that your concentrations would
be about 2x as much as I use and that would give you very strong and saturated
prints, somewhat difficult to balance midtones, higlight and shadows in my
opinion. AT these concentrations I run into some stain issued. I prefer to
work in somewhat weaker layers and add pggment in more then 3 layers, on the
average say about 5. You can always improve a prints that is too light with
another layer or two or three.
You are a fast learner and progressing
well.
Marek
> Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 08:13:39 -0600
> From:
zphoto@montana.net
> Subject: Re: Stock Paint:Gum Solutions?
> To:
alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>
> OK this is it--one last email
before I get on the road. Have to teach a gum
> workshop in Missoula MT
200 mi away and I have to have my hubby drive me
> there because I
can't drive with a knee brace. He has to sit in a town for
> two days
entertaining himself so you can imagine he's one happy camper.
>
> I mix all pigments 15ml tube in a total volume of 60ml because that
is the
> size nalgene bottles I have.
>
> At time of use I
cut my pigments with plain gum--thalo gets cut as much as
> 1+5, yellow
maybe 1+2, magenta maybe 1+3, depending.
>
> Stock solutions are
a cinch to use, and I only have problems with the heavy
> pigments
which settle and separate into a sludge on the bottom--nickel
>
titanate, cerulean, cadmiums. Since I no longer use these colors, mixing
> stock is not a problem for me as far as separation is
concerned.
>
> I think your thalo may be too concentrated, but I
notice a progression of
> yellow-magenta-thalo which I also do as far
as strength.
>
> One more thing--at time of use I may decide to
do an undersaturated print,
> too, in which case I cut all pigments way
more.
>
> There are several list members who have this down to a
real
> exactitude--Marek, Dave Rose used to, and they'll tell you
exactly how much.
> OH, you could do a search for Dave Rose's posts a
few years back but he did
> use powdered pigment.
> Chris
>
__________________
>
> Christina Z. Anderson
>
http://christinaZanderson.com/
> __________________
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Loris Medici"
<mail@loris.medici.name>
> To:
<alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008
7:56 AM
> Subject: Stock Paint:Gum Solutions?
>
>
>
>I was reading handprint.com's "The Secret of Glowing Color" page,
which
> > contains very good and interesting information, especially
in the section
> > "Not Black, Not Light".
> >
(http://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/tech16.html)
> >
> > I
slowly feel the need of making stock paint:gum solutions, in order to
>
> get more consistency and ease of use. Mixing small amounts of
paint:gum
> > solutions is hard to do consistently, especially with
strong colorants and
> > small image sizes. (Because squeezing small
amnt. from the tube is not
> > easy!)
> >
> > I
decided to make stock solutions as listed below:
> >
> >
Yellow PY151 1:2 (1:4 final) -> 15ml paint + 30ml gum
> > Magenta
PV19 1:3 (1:6 final) -> 15ml paint + 45ml gum
> > Cyan PB15:3 1:4
(1:8 final) -> 15ml paint + 60ml gum
> >
> > Since the
stock paint:gum is further diluted 1:1 with dichromate, the
> >
actual paint dilution in the coating solution will be exactly the half
of
> > what it is in the paint:gum solution. (See inside
parenthesis.)
> >
> > This question goes to users of stock
paint:gum solutions (such as
> > Katharine and Christina):
>
>
> > Do you find above figures close to ideal? What is your
experience with
> > those pigments? Anything to pay attention / be
careful about using
> > paint:gum stock solutions?
>
>
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Loris.
> >
>
>
>
>
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