Re: re-clearing pt/pd
Dan, I picked up this extended developer soak procedure from Stan Klimek a few years ago. I find it helps in two ways: One, it makes subsequent clearing a little easier, albeit at the expense of some slightly green tinted developer, and two, it allows you to get that ever-so-subtle additional highest-of-the-highlights density that is sometimes so elusive. The way I figure it, there is no downside other than a slight risk of fogging if your work area has a lot of stray UV light bouncing around. Clay --- fdanb@aol.com wrote: From: Dan Burkholder <fdanb@aol.com> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:49:30 -0500 Hi Jeremy, How would you describe the difference between a minute or two in POx and the 5 minutes you mention? Do you get different results with different papers? Thanks! Dan info@DanBurkholder.com www.DanBurkholder.com On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:16 PM, Jeremy Moore wrote: > Paul, > > Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to > make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something similar to > Matt: > > 5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5 > minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them. > You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during > the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper > white or you're having clearing issues. > > -Jeremy- > > On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano > <viapiano@pacbell.net> wrote: >> Matt... >> >> I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid. >> Maybe I'll >> try some HCA as well... >> >> In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't >> that slight >> wisp of tone be yellow-ish? >> >> So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I >> have a >> bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes, >> after >> acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate as a >> developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F. >> >> Paul >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Matthew Magruder >> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM >> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >> ahh. thank goodness it was only a test strip. >> The long answer (at least my experience thus far) >> Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches >> platine, >> and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after >> theyve been >> washed and have dried. >> But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico >> and such) >> those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long >> you try to >> "re"clear them. In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano >> Artistico and >> during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in >> the Sod. >> Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away. >> Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and >> won't let >> up. >> Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with >> platine? 2 >> or 3 baths? >> My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are >> HCA >> baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate) >> part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA >> baths can >> help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before >> throwing >> it in the wash. >> Just brainstorming of course. >> Matt >> On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: >> >> Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask... >> >> I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths... >> >> Paul >> >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Matthew Magruder >> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM >> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >> Reprint the image Paul. >> Likely be worth it in the long run. >> matt >> >> >> On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: >> >> Hi all... >> >> Been quiet around here lately... >> >> Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it >> dries...in >> case you see some yellow after drydown? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Paul >> >> >>
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