Re: re-clearing pt/pd

[Jeremy Moore <jeremydmoore@gmail.com>]

Dan,

I picked it up from Clay :-)

-Jeremy-

On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 3:03 PM,  <wcharmon@wt.net> wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> I picked up this extended developer soak procedure from Stan Klimek a few years ago.
>
>
> Clay
> --- fdanb@aol.com wrote:
>
> From: Dan Burkholder <fdanb@aol.com>
> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
> Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:49:30 -0500
>
> Hi Jeremy,
>
> How would you describe the difference between a minute or two in POx
> and the 5 minutes you mention? Do you get different results with
> different papers?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
>
> info@DanBurkholder.com
> www.DanBurkholder.com
>
> On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:16 PM, Jeremy Moore wrote:
>
>> Paul,
>>
>> Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to
>> make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something similar to
>> Matt:
>>
>> 5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5
>> minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them.
>> You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during
>> the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper
>> white or you're having clearing issues.
>>
>> -Jeremy-
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano
>> <viapiano@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>> Matt...
>>>
>>> I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid.
>>> Maybe I'll
>>> try some HCA as well...
>>>
>>> In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't
>>> that slight
>>> wisp of tone be yellow-ish?
>>>
>>> So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I
>>> have a
>>> bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes,
>>> after
>>> acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate as a
>>> developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F.
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Matthew Magruder
>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM
>>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
>>> ahh.  thank goodness it was only a test strip.
>>> The long answer (at least my experience thus far)
>>> Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches
>>> platine,
>>> and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after
>>> theyve been
>>> washed and have dried.
>>> But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico
>>> and such)
>>> those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long
>>> you try to
>>> "re"clear them.  In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano
>>> Artistico and
>>> during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in
>>> the Sod.
>>> Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away.
>>> Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and
>>> won't let
>>> up.
>>> Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with
>>> platine?  2
>>> or 3 baths?
>>> My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are
>>> HCA
>>> baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate)
>>> part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA
>>> baths can
>>> help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before
>>> throwing
>>> it in the wash.
>>> Just brainstorming of course.
>>> Matt
>>> On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
>>>
>>> Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask...
>>>
>>> I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths...
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: Matthew Magruder
>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM
>>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
>>> Reprint the image Paul.
>>> Likely be worth it in the long run.
>>> matt
>>>
>>>
>>> On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all...
>>>
>>> Been quiet around here lately...
>>>
>>> Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it
>>> dries...in
>>> case you see some yellow after drydown?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>>
>>>
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