Re: re-clearing pt/pd
Paul
my clearing bath measuring methods (like nearly all my measuring
methods) are seat of the pants at best.
Keep in mind 99% of the time I'm doing 12x20 prints.
I have three of those huge black cement mixing trays you get at Home
Depot for $4/pop. I put about 2 gallons of hot water in each. pour
probably 10 tablespoons worth of Citric in the first one.
the second two, I do about 8tablespoons of Sodium sulphate and about
3 tablespoons worth of sod. metabisulphate.
That'll usually last a good while. When the 2nd tray (the first of
the two "HCA" baths) starts to get yellowy... I move #3 to #2 and
make a new #3 of "HCA".
If Im printing alot in the session, sometimes I'll throw some more
hot water and some more citric acid in the first bath.
Its hardly exact, but it seems to work.
Clay also passed on the tip about leaving the print in the developer
for a good 5+ mins, always seems to help my clearing - as in, I
usually don't have any trouble clearing... usually :)
And like Jeremy said, you should have no yellow tint in part of the
coated area. Clay taught me a trick to hold the paper up to some
light source and if you see yellow, put it back in the clearing baths.
Matt
On Dec 18, 2008, at 3:34 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
What strength is everyone using for their HCA baths?
Paul
----- Original Message ----- From: <wcharmon@wt.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
Dan,
I picked up this extended developer soak procedure from Stan
Klimek a few years ago.
I find it helps in two ways: One, it makes subsequent clearing a
little easier, albeit at the expense of some slightly green tinted
developer, and two, it allows you to get that ever-so-subtle
additional highest-of-the-highlights density that is sometimes so
elusive. The way I figure it, there is no downside other than a
slight risk of fogging if your work area has a lot of stray UV
light bouncing around.
Clay
--- fdanb@aol.com wrote:
From: Dan Burkholder <fdanb@aol.com>
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:49:30 -0500
Hi Jeremy,
How would you describe the difference between a minute or two in POx
and the 5 minutes you mention? Do you get different results with
different papers?
Thanks!
Dan
info@DanBurkholder.com
www.DanBurkholder.com
On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:16 PM, Jeremy Moore wrote:
Paul,
Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to
make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something
similar to
Matt:
5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5
minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them.
You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during
the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper
white or you're having clearing issues.
-Jeremy-
On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano
<viapiano@pacbell.net> wrote:
Matt...
I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid.
Maybe I'll
try some HCA as well...
In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't
that slight
wisp of tone be yellow-ish?
So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I
have a
bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes,
after
acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate
as a
developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Magruder
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
ahh. thank goodness it was only a test strip.
The long answer (at least my experience thus far)
Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches
platine,
and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after
theyve been
washed and have dried.
But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico
and such)
those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long
you try to
"re"clear them. In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano
Artistico and
during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in
the Sod.
Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away.
Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and
won't let
up.
Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with
platine? 2
or 3 baths?
My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are
HCA
baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate)
part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA
baths can
help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before
throwing
it in the wash.
Just brainstorming of course.
Matt
On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask...
I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths...
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Magruder
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
Reprint the image Paul.
Likely be worth it in the long run.
matt
On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
Hi all...
Been quiet around here lately...
Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it
dries...in
case you see some yellow after drydown?
Thanks!
Paul
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