U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | RE: re-clearing pt/pd

RE: re-clearing pt/pd



DEAR MATHEW,
	You do mean Sodium Sulfite, not Sulfate, don't you?  I didn't think
Sulfate had any clearing properties.  
		CHEERS!
			BOB

-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Magruder [mailto:me@scootermagruder.com] 
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 12:32 AM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd

Also, don't mistakenly mix your Citric acid with sodium sulphate...  
the sulphur fumes'll singe your nostril real good.
I heard that from a "friend" I mean.
:)


On Dec 18, 2008, at 3:34 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:

> What strength is everyone using for their HCA baths?
>
> Paul
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <wcharmon@wt.net>
> To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:03 PM
> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
>
>
>>
>> Dan,
>>
>> I picked up this extended developer soak procedure from Stan  
>> Klimek a few years ago.
>>
>> I find it helps in two ways: One, it makes subsequent clearing a  
>> little easier, albeit at the expense of some slightly green tinted  
>> developer, and two, it allows you to get that ever-so-subtle  
>> additional highest-of-the-highlights density that is sometimes so  
>> elusive. The way I figure it, there is no downside other than a  
>> slight risk of fogging if your work area has a lot of stray UV  
>> light bouncing around.
>>
>> Clay
>> --- fdanb@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> From: Dan Burkholder <fdanb@aol.com>
>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
>> Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:49:30 -0500
>>
>> Hi Jeremy,
>>
>> How would you describe the difference between a minute or two in POx
>> and the 5 minutes you mention? Do you get different results with
>> different papers?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> info@DanBurkholder.com
>> www.DanBurkholder.com
>>
>> On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:16 PM, Jeremy Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Paul,
>>>
>>> Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to
>>> make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something  
>>> similar to
>>> Matt:
>>>
>>> 5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5
>>> minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them.
>>> You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during
>>> the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper
>>> white or you're having clearing issues.
>>>
>>> -Jeremy-
>>>
>>> On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano
>>> <viapiano@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>>> Matt...
>>>>
>>>> I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid.
>>>> Maybe I'll
>>>> try some HCA as well...
>>>>
>>>> In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't
>>>> that slight
>>>> wisp of tone be yellow-ish?
>>>>
>>>> So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I
>>>> have a
>>>> bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes,
>>>> after
>>>> acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate  
>>>> as a
>>>> developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F.
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: Matthew Magruder
>>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
>>>> ahh.  thank goodness it was only a test strip.
>>>> The long answer (at least my experience thus far)
>>>> Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches
>>>> platine,
>>>> and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after
>>>> theyve been
>>>> washed and have dried.
>>>> But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico
>>>> and such)
>>>> those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long
>>>> you try to
>>>> "re"clear them.  In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano
>>>> Artistico and
>>>> during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in
>>>> the Sod.
>>>> Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away.
>>>> Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and
>>>> won't let
>>>> up.
>>>> Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with
>>>> platine?  2
>>>> or 3 baths?
>>>> My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are
>>>> HCA
>>>> baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate)
>>>> part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA
>>>> baths can
>>>> help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before
>>>> throwing
>>>> it in the wash.
>>>> Just brainstorming of course.
>>>> Matt
>>>> On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask...
>>>>
>>>> I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths...
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>> From: Matthew Magruder
>>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd
>>>> Reprint the image Paul.
>>>> Likely be worth it in the long run.
>>>> matt
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi all...
>>>>
>>>> Been quiet around here lately...
>>>>
>>>> Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it
>>>> dries...in
>>>> case you see some yellow after drydown?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>


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