RE: re-clearing pt/pd
DEAR MATHEW, You do mean Sodium Sulfite, not Sulfate, don't you? I didn't think Sulfate had any clearing properties. CHEERS! BOB -----Original Message----- From: Matthew Magruder [mailto:me@scootermagruder.com] Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 12:32 AM To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd Also, don't mistakenly mix your Citric acid with sodium sulphate... the sulphur fumes'll singe your nostril real good. I heard that from a "friend" I mean. :) On Dec 18, 2008, at 3:34 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: > What strength is everyone using for their HCA baths? > > Paul > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: <wcharmon@wt.net> > To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca> > Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:03 PM > Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd > > >> >> Dan, >> >> I picked up this extended developer soak procedure from Stan >> Klimek a few years ago. >> >> I find it helps in two ways: One, it makes subsequent clearing a >> little easier, albeit at the expense of some slightly green tinted >> developer, and two, it allows you to get that ever-so-subtle >> additional highest-of-the-highlights density that is sometimes so >> elusive. The way I figure it, there is no downside other than a >> slight risk of fogging if your work area has a lot of stray UV >> light bouncing around. >> >> Clay >> --- fdanb@aol.com wrote: >> >> From: Dan Burkholder <fdanb@aol.com> >> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >> Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 15:49:30 -0500 >> >> Hi Jeremy, >> >> How would you describe the difference between a minute or two in POx >> and the 5 minutes you mention? Do you get different results with >> different papers? >> >> Thanks! >> >> Dan >> >> info@DanBurkholder.com >> www.DanBurkholder.com >> >> On Dec 18, 2008, at 2:16 PM, Jeremy Moore wrote: >> >>> Paul, >>> >>> Have you tested your water's pH level? If it's basic you're going to >>> make it very difficult to clear your prints. I do something >>> similar to >>> Matt: >>> >>> 5 minutes in 120F potassium oxalate, 5 minutes in citric acid, 5 >>> minutes each in 2 HCA baths. My highlights have ZERO yellow to them. >>> You can cover a portion of the coated area with aluminum foil during >>> the exposure and after processing the covered area should be paper >>> white or you're having clearing issues. >>> >>> -Jeremy- >>> >>> On Thu, Dec 18, 2008 at 9:54 AM, Paul Viapiano >>> <viapiano@pacbell.net> wrote: >>>> Matt... >>>> >>>> I use a water rinse after development and 3 baths of citric acid. >>>> Maybe I'll >>>> try some HCA as well... >>>> >>>> In the image itself, what color should 90-95% white be? Wouldn't >>>> that slight >>>> wisp of tone be yellow-ish? >>>> >>>> So far, Platine is the only paper I've used for Pd printing, but I >>>> have a >>>> bunch of Fab EW to try yet. The Fab EW was great for argyrotypes, >>>> after >>>> acidifying of course. Also, so far, I have only used Amm Citrate >>>> as a >>>> developer in temps from 80-90 degrees F. >>>> >>>> Paul >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: Matthew Magruder >>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 6:56 PM >>>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >>>> ahh. thank goodness it was only a test strip. >>>> The long answer (at least my experience thus far) >>>> Some papers lighter papers (cranes 90# cover, platinotype, arches >>>> platine, >>>> and japanese papers) these can sometimes be "re"cleared after >>>> theyve been >>>> washed and have dried. >>>> But when it comes to thicker papers (Rives BFK, Fabriano Artistico >>>> and such) >>>> those things seem to retain that yellow stain no matter how long >>>> you try to >>>> "re"clear them. In fact, I've tried it before with Fabriano >>>> Artistico and >>>> during the "re"clearing the image actually started to bleach out in >>>> the Sod. >>>> Sulfate and EDTA bath long before the yellow stain would go away. >>>> Sometimes that residual Ferric Ox just clings on for dear life and >>>> won't let >>>> up. >>>> Side note, are you using only citric acid baths as clearing with >>>> platine? 2 >>>> or 3 baths? >>>> My main procedure is the first bath is Citric Acid, 2nd and 3rd are >>>> HCA >>>> baths (Sodium sulfate and metabisulfate) >>>> part of that train of thought being that the more alkaline HCA >>>> baths can >>>> help to bring the acid level of the paper/print more nuetral before >>>> throwing >>>> it in the wash. >>>> Just brainstorming of course. >>>> Matt >>>> On Dec 17, 2008, at 7:41 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: >>>> >>>> Twas only a test strip but thought I'd ask... >>>> >>>> I was using Platine with citric acid clearing baths... >>>> >>>> Paul >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: Matthew Magruder >>>> To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca >>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 4:37 PM >>>> Subject: Re: re-clearing pt/pd >>>> Reprint the image Paul. >>>> Likely be worth it in the long run. >>>> matt >>>> >>>> >>>> On Dec 17, 2008, at 4:05 PM, Paul Viapiano wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi all... >>>> >>>> Been quiet around here lately... >>>> >>>> Just wondering if you can re-clear a palladium print after it >>>> dries...in >>>> case you see some yellow after drydown? >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> >>>> Paul >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >> > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3705 (20081219) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com
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