RE: pyro and cyano
DEAR CHRISTINA ET AL.,
Does using the hydrogen peroxide cause any problems during
processing or after? I use it because it gives me the final depth of blue
quickly so that I can judge if I have the correct exposure.
CHEERS!
BOB
-----Original Message-----
From: Christina Z. Anderson [mailto:zphoto@montana.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:22 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: pyro and cyano
Chris, when you say "six stops"
> --- how many steps on the 21-step is that ?
Hi Judy,
6 stops is 12 steps on a 21 step tablet (1 step=1/2 stop) or 18 steps on a
31 step tablet (3 steps= 1 stop). This is why I don't talk steps because it
is confusing with whether one is using a 21 or a 31 or a 44, but a stop is a
stop is a stop.
Yes, cyano gets darker as it oxidizes. I never use, and never recommend,
hydrogen peroxide because eventually the print will turn that nice darker
blue anyway.
Chris
(If I display ignorance,
> please excuse.... But I live in a 21-step dimension, not a "stop"
> dimension. In fact when I strayed into the wet darkroom last month on a
> different mission, I couldn't even make the safelight go on !)
>
> In any event, my rule of thumb for an average neg in simple cyano was 8 or
> 9 steps, tho I found many ways to modify that. For instance, pages 34
> thru 37 of Post-Factory #5 ("Managing the Blues") show differences from
> light source (sun vs. UV bulbs), paper (Strathmore Artists v. Whatman Fine
> Print, among others) proportions of parts A & B (as discussed on this list
> by... Sandy?, Bob Shramm?, others ?) a while back; time on the paper
> before exposure, delayed development, double coating (according to paper),
> acid "prebath" ("tends to extend and deepen range very dramatically"),
> etc. etc. etc.
>
> That issue is dated "August 2000", so (BELIEVE ME !!!) I've forgotten the
> details (the above is from a quick skim... but I'm not printing cyanotype
> these days, and need that disk space ...ie, what's left in the brain ...
> for current endeavors, so am TRYING to stay away from this topic... Tho,
> since you insist.... my eye lights on mention that, to my surprise, I
> discovered that "dry down" in cyano, goes on, not just for one day, but
> several ... But you knew that ?
>
> There are also 21-steps A through D2 of various ranges & why (p.37). But
> as in "devil get thee behind me," I change the subject: Another P-F (from
> around then) shows a "Cyanodyke" -- what the photographer called her
> vandyke brown prints over cyanotype. The print was very pretty, with nice
> combined tones (tho in repro b&w only). As I recall, she didn't mention
> bleaching, tho of course in the other way around -- cyano over vandyke
> brown -- the silver gets bleached by the potassium ferricyanide in the
> cyanotype. A short item, but if I locate it, I'll cite.
>
> Judy
>
>> not suitable for cyanotype as it is for other processes that have longer
>> tonal ranges, unless one were to contract the tonal range of the pyro neg
>> to match cyano--or have subject matter that is tonally contracted anyway.
>>
>> BUT, and this is my question: does anyone know the maximum DR possible
>> in a pyro neg? I do not have a UV densitometer. And, from memory (which
>> obviously doesn't serve me too well so please answer this, too) a film
>> negative can actually record up to 13 stops of info, pt/pd about 10, BW
>> paper about 7, and cyano about 6...you get my point perhaps.
>>
> [CUT.....]
>
>> http://christinaanderson.visualserver.com/Text_page.cfm?pID=2448
>>
>> OHHH man do I need to get back to work, this is too fun posting all these
>> silly visuals, and hopefully someone will benefit except me :)
>> Chris
>> __________________
>>
>> Christina Z. Anderson
>> http://christinaZanderson.com/
>> __________________
>>
>
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