U of S | Mailing List Archive | alt-photo-process-l | RE: Fabriano

RE: Fabriano



As I indicated, MANY people are happy using this paper. But, no one can guarantee that when you place your order something hasn't changed. Buying paper is always a crap shoot. That said, I've found this paper more consistent than most since it replaced its predecessor, Fabriano Uno. One caveat, I only use the 140 lb version. I don't like prints on cardboard. :-)
 
My suggestions for treatment is soak in 5% oxalic acid for 5 to 10 minutes.
 
Kerik


From: David Ashcraft [mailto:david@davidashcraftgallery.com]
Sent: Friday, November 13, 2009 7:09 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: Fabriano

I have oxalic in the darkroom now so will give that a try first if I get the Fabriano.  The question now is anybody happy using this paper?  I can't buy just one sheet from this distributor, 22x30, so I want to make sure the paper is the same as when Arentz wrote about it in his book in 2005.

David


On Nov 13, 2009, at 5:18 PM, Kerik wrote:

I know Loris' results are different, but oxalic acid has worked extremely well for me and dozens and dozens of students since I began using this approach about eight years ago. My paper is never gritty. For me in here in the US, oxalic acid is cheap, easy to get and IMO much safer to have around than HCl. 
 
Kerik
 


From: David Ashcraft [mailto:david@davidashcraftgallery.com]
Sent: Friday, November 13, 2009 2:50 PM
To: alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca
Subject: Re: Fabriano

Thanks.
Was also hoping that I would get a recommendation for this particular paper.  I found a wholesaler I deal with that was giving me a very deep discount on this particular paper and thought I would capitalize on it.  Just don't want to end up with a paper that has changed and is no longer useful for pt/pd printing.  I did get some of the lame Platine and don't want to go through that again.

David 
On Nov 13, 2009, at 2:27 PM, Loris Medici wrote:

Soak in 2%-5% hydrochloric acid for at least 2-3 minutes (until no
fizzing/bubbles to be precise) and rinse well later. You'll have a
very nice paper for pt/pd and gumovers...

If you find HCl objectionable you may also use dilute (as above)
acetic acid, or (as a last resort) oxalic acid. Most printers
(including masters such as Dick Arentz and Kerik Kouklis) use oxalic
with good results but I don't find it well suited to the job since it
made a gritty paper for me. (I also don't find calcium carbonate and
oxalic acid compatible because the resulting salt is insoluble and
will remain in paper whereas HCl or acetic acid will make soluble
calcium salts which will leave the paper + HCl will dissolve small
bits of iron/metal in paper - if present - which is detrimental to the
process.) Moreover, another cause why I prefer it is the fact that HCl
is very very cheap and readily available (concentrated/pure or already
diluted for cleaning/decalcification/pH control purposes, many off the
shelf products) in my location (Turkey) - may not be so to you.

Hope this helps,
Loris.

  • Follow-Ups:
    • Re: Fabriano
      • From: David Ashcraft <david@davidashcraftgallery.com>
    • Re: Fabriano
      • From: francis schanberger <frangst@gmail.com>