[alt-photo] Re: Paper Negatives
Diana Bloomfield
dhbloomfield at bellsouth.net
Mon Feb 22 14:37:50 GMT 2010
Here's the blurb that Gamblin puts on their site. Of course, they
are making and selling it. But I think it was Jim who first told me
about using it (thanks, Jim!), and around the same time, I went up to
my local art store, looking for some paper-- and the owner, who always
seems quite knowledgeable about all things art-related-- asked me what
I was working on, so I told him, and then I started complaining about
gelatin sizing, glyoxal, etc. He immediately asked why I wasn't using
something like PVA-- so we had this long conversation about it, and he
said painters buy it all the time up there-- He seemed confident,
conservation-wise, that it wasn't an issue. Of course, like Gamblin--
he's also selling it. But given what else I consistently buy up
there, I doubt he stands to make much money off pushing PVA on me, or
on other unsuspecting customers.
PVA (poly vinyl acetate) is a synthetic-- I think. (To answer
someone else's question-- no hardener needed.) Using it improved my
life (and gum prints) greatly. :)
POLY VINYL ACETATE (PVA) SIZE
Diluted with distilled water, PVA size is a contemporary size for
fabric support. Conservation scientists recommend painters use neutral
pH PVA size on linen and canvas instead of rabbit skin glue. PVA
provides a good size layer that seals the fabric but does not re-
absorb atmospheric moisture, swell and shrink like rabbit skin glue
does. There are hundreds of different formulae of PVA. We acknowledge
and appreciate the research of the Canadian Conservation Institute
that helps painters and conservators identify the best PVA to use.
Gamblin PVA Size is made from PVA that has a neutral pH and does not
yellow. It also retains its flexibility and does not emit harmful
volatiles.
On Feb 22, 2010, at 4:50 AM, Michel Debar wrote:
> PVA wood glue used for sizing, is it safe ?
>
> I would certainly worry about the conservation of prints sized with
> PVA, as
> its long term effect on paper has not, to my knowledge, been studied
> very
> seriously. As a minimum, I would stay away from "wood" glue, branded
> or not.
> Its composition has little chance of being known, and of being
> stable over
> time. The acidity of these glues may vary, and not be suitable for
> some
> processes. They may take as little as five years to become brittle -
> however, this may not be not too much of a concern given the very
> thin layer
> used.
>
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