[alt-photo] Re: tintypes

[Kerik Kouklis]

I should add that what I said applies to real tintypes (collodion), not the
rockland stuff. I've never used that.

Kerik

-----Original Message-----
From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org
[mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of
Christina Anderson
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 2010 9:40 AM
To: The alternative photographic processes mailing list
Subject: [alt-photo] Re: tintypes

Thank you Kerik!! I am writing up a handout right now as we speak. Info to
follow...
Chris

Christina Z. Anderson
christinaZanderson.com

On Nov 6, 2010, at 10:34 AM, Kerik wrote:

> Buffed bright. No subbing. Just peel and pour. 
> 
> Kerik
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Nov 6, 2010, at 7:53 AM, Christina Anderson <zphoto at montana.net> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> Here at the Main Trophy Supply URL do you all buy the buffed bright,
brushed/satin, or opaque aluminum? Or is there no difference?
>> 
>> It looks like in the Rockland kit it is the brushed/satin. I bought
buffed bright for the class. We sanded it lightly with 600 grit sandpaper
and cleaned with sodium carbonate, and adherence was pretty good for most
who were careful, but I am thinking it would be best to use a varnish or
maybe buy the brushed satin type.
>> 
>> Second question: do you sub it with polyurethane spray glossy or semi
gloss varnish or gelatin? Or nothing? 
>> 
>> Jill Enfield uses metal plates sprayed with flat black paint I see...
>> 
>> Chris
>> 
>> http://maintrophysupply.com/aluminum.htm
>> 
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