[alt-photo] Re: instant films (specifically Fuji fp-3000b)
viapiano at pacbell.net
Sun Apr 29 21:58:20 GMT 2012
I've used the discontinued Fuji 100 with an RZ for many years, scanning the print and making diginegs, then creating pt/pd prints. Works beautifully and there's a special quality to the prints...different from scanning a film neg, for example.
On Apr 29, 2012, at 1:58 PM, Ryuji Suzuki <rs at silvergrain.org> wrote:
> So I've been exposing FP-100C and FP-3000B in Polaroid backs of GX-680II camera. This is great, because I get 8cm square image on the film, with all the manual control tilt/shift/aperture and so I get good picture every time I expose with no wastage.
> One challenge I found is to bring the negative part back to studio without damaging and without getting dust on the surface. When I shoot people on location and expose a whole pack or so, it's difficult to dry the negative part of the film with the gooey stuff before bringing them home.
> Did people figure out a workable solution for this?
> I also confirmed what Francesco said... FP-3000B negative can be scanned as a reflective material and inversed to see the positive. It's still not very sharp, and very grainy (perhaps partly because of the texture in the paper?) but I get better highlight gradation from the negative.
> meet some of my neighbor artists on Polaroid...
> Ryuji Suzuki
> "Don't play what's there, play what's not there." (Miles Davis)
> Francesco Fragomeni wrote:
>> Bob, I'm surprised they're still listing it. Everyone I know who has
>> ordered it says they can't get it from almost anywhere. Also, both Calumet
>> and B&H are notorious for listing products as available that are actually
>> long since backordered. Either way, I don't use the 4x5 variant as I prefer
>> the 3x4 so I don't really know in this case.
>> Ryuji, yes that is the process for the FP100C. Clorox Cloro-gel is the best
>> that I know of for removing the backing. I've seen prints made in an
>> enlarger from the FP100B neg recoveries as well. FP3000B is an entirely
>> different design then the 100C and 100B variants. There is no film layer,
>> only paper and the recovery method that works on the 100C and 100B does not
>> work on 3000B. The "negative" side of the 3000B is in fact a negative image
>> so scanning as a transparency probably wouldn't be ideal seeing as
>> transparency is typically used to refer to a film positive. Everyone I know
>> scans as film negatives in both cases of 100C and 100B for optimum results
>> (most that I know are using the Epson V750 Pro and Silverfast). As far as I
>> know, the 3000B negative would be optimally scanned as a print rather then
>> as a neg since it is not transparent and then you'll invert it to positive
>> later. I prefer to just scan the prints themselves.
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