[alt-photo] Re: instant films (specifically Fuji fp-3000b)

[Francesco Fragomeni]

As far as transporting the negs, the surface of the negatives dry
relatively quickly. I suppose the only things that were of concern when I
was saving the negs was A) shielding them from extreme light immediately
after peeling to prevent Sabatier effect and B) preventing dust and
scratches. Blocking strong light is easy. As to the dust and scratches,
essentially all I did was set the thing somewhere to let it dry. Once dry I
stored them in the used cardboard carton the film came in. As long as I put
them in there dry I never had dust stick to them or scratches to the image
area.

-Francesco
www.francescofragomeni.com



On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:58 PM, Paul Viapiano <viapiano at pacbell.net> wrote:

> I've used the discontinued Fuji 100 with an RZ for many years, scanning
> the print and making diginegs, then creating pt/pd prints. Works
> beautifully and there's a special quality to the prints...different from
> scanning a film neg, for example.
>
> On Apr 29, 2012, at 1:58 PM, Ryuji Suzuki <rs at silvergrain.org> wrote:
>
> > So I've been exposing FP-100C and FP-3000B in Polaroid backs of GX-680II
> camera. This is great, because I get 8cm square image on the film, with all
> the manual control tilt/shift/aperture and so I get good picture every time
> I expose with no wastage.
> >
> > One challenge I found is to bring the negative part back to studio
> without damaging and without getting dust on the surface. When I shoot
> people on location and expose a whole pack or so, it's difficult to dry the
> negative part of the film with the gooey stuff before bringing them home.
> >
> > Did people figure out a workable solution for this?
> >
> > I also confirmed what Francesco said... FP-3000B negative can be scanned
> as a reflective material and inversed to see the positive. It's still not
> very sharp, and very grainy (perhaps partly because of the texture in the
> paper?) but I get better highlight gradation from the negative.
> >
> >
> http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3753673889272.2163370.1499185010
> >
> > meet some of my neighbor artists on Polaroid...
> >
> > --
> > Ryuji Suzuki
> > "Don't play what's there, play what's not there." (Miles Davis)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Francesco Fragomeni wrote:
> >> Bob, I'm surprised they're still listing it. Everyone I know who has
> >> ordered it says they can't get it from almost anywhere. Also, both
> Calumet
> >> and B&H are notorious for listing products as available that are
> actually
> >> long since backordered. Either way, I don't use the 4x5 variant as I
> prefer
> >> the 3x4 so I don't really know in this case.
> >>
> >> Ryuji, yes that is the process for the FP100C. Clorox Cloro-gel is the
> best
> >> that I know of for removing the backing. I've seen prints made in an
> >> enlarger from the FP100B neg recoveries as well. FP3000B is an entirely
> >> different design then the 100C and 100B variants. There is no film
> layer,
> >> only paper and the recovery method that works on the 100C and 100B does
> not
> >> work on 3000B. The "negative" side of the 3000B is in fact a negative
> image
> >> so scanning as a transparency probably wouldn't be ideal seeing as
> >> transparency is typically used to refer to a film positive. Everyone I
> know
> >> scans as film negatives in both cases of 100C and 100B for optimum
> results
> >> (most that I know are using the Epson V750 Pro and Silverfast). As far
> as I
> >> know, the 3000B negative would be optimally scanned as a print rather
> then
> >> as a neg since it is not transparent and then you'll invert it to
> positive
> >> later. I prefer to just scan the prints themselves.
> >>
> >> -Francesco
> >> www.francescofragomeni.com
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