[alt-photo] Re: Anyone using sodium citrate as DOP pt/pd developer?

[BOB KISS]

DEAR LORIS,
	From my perspective (having to ship chems to Barbados) I always look
for ways to find or mix things locally.  Further, considering how simple it
is to make Pot Ox, I am amazed at how expensive it is from the Alt
suppliers.  E.G. 1 Kg costs $39 US!?!?!?  Throw on top of that shipping,
duty and VAT and it gets exorbitant. 
	From a local chem supplier I bought 25kg bags of both Ox Acid and
Pot Carbonate...total price less than $200 US...less than 5 times for ONE kg
of Pot Ox.     It is extremely simple to mix!  The only proviso is to use a
large mixing beaker because it effervesces (bubbles) as well as produces a
little heat.  As long as you do it gradually it is VERY easy.  With those
two bags, I could supply a university alt chem course for decades.  I only
hope I live long enough to put a dent in this supply!  ;-))
	Lastly, I LOVE the warm tone and I haven't noticed any more grain
with Pot Ox (with my papers) than I have with Sod Cit.  
	CHEERS FROM BARBADOS!
			BOB  

-----Original Message-----
From: alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org
[mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] On Behalf Of
Loris Medici
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 4:29 AM
To: 'The alternative photographic processes mailing list'
Subject: [alt-photo] Re: Anyone using sodium citrate as DOP pt/pd developer?

Dear Bob, Christina and Jon,

Thanks much for the info, mucho mucho appreciated! (A special thanks to
Christina for the comparative visual... And Bob, I hope you get well soon.)

The motivation behind my question was:
I may print for someone (exhibition + a small edition run maybe...) in the
near future. Despite personally preferring the POP variant, for sake of
consistency, I thought it would be wiser to go for the traditional DOP
process. (Humidity level and drying time is definitive - in terms of hue and
speed - for pop...) While going down the checklist, I noticed that I don't
have a local source for potassium oxalate, and decided I don't want to mess
with compounding it from (locally present) oxalic acid and potassium
carbonate. (I did the math - out of curiosity; I like the chemistry stuff as
you already know! - nevertheless...) Local sources have sodium citrate (and
citric acid - for buffering...), hence my inquiry...

Verdict:
Most of the photogs aren't much fond of extra warm prints here, I guess it's
because they're more accustomed to traditional, selenium toned silver
prints. Therefore, the colder is the color (+ the better the dmax is) the
better looks the print to their eyes. If ammonium / sodium citrate gives
colder colors, that's fine. From what I gather from the visual provided by
Christina, yes, the color is colder, but still on the warm side - exactly as
I like it! (I personally don't like a too warm hue; neutral or a hint of
warm would be perfect.) The final decision will be made by the photog, of
course, sounds promising anyway...

Thanks much again & regards,
Loris.

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