[alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper

[Le Globe Trotteur]

Ok, now I am very confused. Should I use my flat dryer or throw it away?
I also have another ferrotype dryer that is a drum but it's all manual. No 
motor. My father in law found it in a dumpster. I have no idea on how to use 
it. There's canvas all around the drurm. It also has a heat setting.

Let's see if I can summarize.
Put my fiber glossy print in photo flo. Do not squeegee it.
Lay it flat and wet onto a cold flat ferrotype dryer. Squeegee it.
Close the canvas (or maybe not). Turn on the heat and wait for the print to 
pop.

I will also use a chrome polish to clean up my ferrotype.

Now Etienne suggested to lay it flat on a piece of glass. Would a piece of 
glass from a frame work? or does it have to be special glass?

Thanks.
Pierre

--------------------------------------------------
From: <info at permadocument.be>
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:47 AM
To: "'The alternative photographic processes mailing list'" 
<alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
Subject: [alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper

> WOW! Throw it away because it gets way too hot! I never in my life heard
> this kind of reasoning about ferrotyping high gloss baryta paper. I, 
> myself
> have a strong experience of ferrotyping since the 1950's. My technique
> consists of using a flat dryer which dries two prints at a time. You 
> should
> have an unbroken layer of water on the plate before putting your print on
> it. Squeegee the excess water when the dryer is closed. Then go through a
> full sequence of drying: heat the dryer till the paper "pops" and then let
> it entirely cool down. Your print will perfectly glossy and flat (in
> function of the surface quality of your ferrotype sheet). Good luck!
>
> Warm greetings from Brussels.
> Roger
>
> Roger Kockaerts
> Atelier pH7
> Rue des Balkans 7
> B-1180 Brussels
> 322473584931
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org
> [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] De la part 
> de
> etienne garbaux
> Envoyé : samedi 14 janvier 2012 08:15
> À : The alternative photographic processes mailing list
> Objet : [alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper
>
> Pie wrote:
>
>>My dryer is flat. I can dry on both side though.  So there's no
>>rotation.  I think my drier is a premier dryer.
>
> OK, I thought you might have had a professional drum drier.  The Premier
> dryers are unmitigated crap -- my advice is to throw it away before you 
> ruin
> any more prints.  They run way too hot and even when they were new the
> surface was not nearly smooth enough for proper ferrotyping.  It is best 
> to
> dry prints without heat -- the usual method is on nylon screens held
> horizontal in a frame, or squeegeed to plate glass or a ferrotype sheet if
> you want a full glossy finish.  You can use a fan to blow room-temperature
> air across them to speed things up a bit.
>
>>So you have to wait for the print to pop off by themselves?
>
> Yes, if you don't want to damage them.
>
>>How do you know when they are ready because they are under the canvas.
>
> You can't ever get good results with a Premier.  They always run way too 
> hot
> and the heat is very uneven -- they have hot spots that are even hotter 
> than
> the already too-hot rest of the surface.  As I said, do yourself a favor 
> and
> throw it away.
>
>>You also said to squegee the print but then later on you added to have
>>water (with photo flo) between the print and the plate. Which method is
>>best?
>
> They are the same method.  Start with the print nice and wet with water 
> and
> photo-flo, then "roll" it down onto the glass so there is good, wet 
> contact
> and no air bubbles or dry spots.  Then squeegee very firmly.  The prints
> should stick tight to the glass, then pop off when they are dry.
>
>>Now, on the inkjet part..I really have never seen a good inkjet print.
>>Maybe because i can tell it is an inkjet print. They have no dimension
>>to me.
>
> Sorry, I don't understand that.  It sounds like an audiophool saying the
> highs are "too white."  If one gets the tonal mapping right (the success
> rate on this seems on par with printers using traditional methods -- which
> is to say, ever so slightly better than dismal), and doesn't try to print
> the pixels too big, I find that one can make very nice inkjet prints.  I
> have scanned old negatives and made inkjet prints that are just as 
> pleasing
> (to me, anyway) as my original prints.  However, it generally requires a
> B&W-only setup with several grey inks in addition to black.  As far as
> longevity goes, Dr. Wilhelm seems to think most of the current art-quality
> inkjet media and supplies will be stable for more than 100 years, which is
> more than enough for me.
>
> Best regards,
>
> etienne
>
>
>
>
>
>
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