[alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper

Sat Jan 14 15:55:52 GMT 2012

forgot to add that my dryer is an array brand and not premier. is that better?Pierre
 > From: unglobetrotteur at hotmail.com
> To: alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org
> Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:01:52 -0500
> Subject: [alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper
> 
> Ok, now I am very confused. Should I use my flat dryer or throw it away?
> I also have another ferrotype dryer that is a drum but it's all manual. No 
> motor. My father in law found it in a dumpster. I have no idea on how to use 
> it. There's canvas all around the drurm. It also has a heat setting.
> 
> Let's see if I can summarize.
> Put my fiber glossy print in photo flo. Do not squeegee it.
> Lay it flat and wet onto a cold flat ferrotype dryer. Squeegee it.
> Close the canvas (or maybe not). Turn on the heat and wait for the print to 
> pop.
> 
> I will also use a chrome polish to clean up my ferrotype.
> 
> Now Etienne suggested to lay it flat on a piece of glass. Would a piece of 
> glass from a frame work? or does it have to be special glass?
> 
> Thanks.
> Pierre
> 
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <info at permadocument.be>
> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:47 AM
> To: "'The alternative photographic processes mailing list'" 
> <alt-photo-process-list at lists.altphotolist.org>
> Subject: [alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper
> 
> > WOW! Throw it away because it gets way too hot! I never in my life heard
> > this kind of reasoning about ferrotyping high gloss baryta paper. I, 
> > myself
> > have a strong experience of ferrotyping since the 1950's. My technique
> > consists of using a flat dryer which dries two prints at a time. You 
> > should
> > have an unbroken layer of water on the plate before putting your print on
> > it. Squeegee the excess water when the dryer is closed. Then go through a
> > full sequence of drying: heat the dryer till the paper "pops" and then let
> > it entirely cool down. Your print will perfectly glossy and flat (in
> > function of the surface quality of your ferrotype sheet). Good luck!
> >
> > Warm greetings from Brussels.
> > Roger
> >
> > Roger Kockaerts
> > Atelier pH7
> > Rue des Balkans 7
> > B-1180 Brussels
> > 322473584931
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org
> > [mailto:alt-photo-process-list-bounces at lists.altphotolist.org] De la part 
> > de
> > etienne garbaux
> > Envoyé : samedi 14 janvier 2012 08:15
> > À : The alternative photographic processes mailing list
> > Objet : [alt-photo] Re: Dmax for silver paper
> >
> > Pie wrote:
> >
> >>My dryer is flat. I can dry on both side though.  So there's no
> >>rotation.  I think my drier is a premier dryer.
> >
> > OK, I thought you might have had a professional drum drier.  The Premier
> > dryers are unmitigated crap -- my advice is to throw it away before you 
> > ruin
> > any more prints.  They run way too hot and even when they were new the
> > surface was not nearly smooth enough for proper ferrotyping.  It is best 
> > to
> > dry prints without heat -- the usual method is on nylon screens held
> > horizontal in a frame, or squeegeed to plate glass or a ferrotype sheet if
> > you want a full glossy finish.  You can use a fan to blow room-temperature
> > air across them to speed things up a bit.
> >
> >>So you have to wait for the print to pop off by themselves?
> >
> > Yes, if you don't want to damage them.
> >
> >>How do you know when they are ready because they are under the canvas.
> >
> > You can't ever get good results with a Premier.  They always run way too 
> > hot
> > and the heat is very uneven -- they have hot spots that are even hotter 
> > than
> > the already too-hot rest of the surface.  As I said, do yourself a favor 
> > and
> > throw it away.
> >
> >>You also said to squegee the print but then later on you added to have
> >>water (with photo flo) between the print and the plate. Which method is
> >>best?
> >
> > They are the same method.  Start with the print nice and wet with water 
> > and
> > photo-flo, then "roll" it down onto the glass so there is good, wet 
> > contact
> > and no air bubbles or dry spots.  Then squeegee very firmly.  The prints
> > should stick tight to the glass, then pop off when they are dry.
> >
> >>Now, on the inkjet part..I really have never seen a good inkjet print.
> >>Maybe because i can tell it is an inkjet print. They have no dimension
> >>to me.
> >
> > Sorry, I don't understand that.  It sounds like an audiophool saying the
> > highs are "too white."  If one gets the tonal mapping right (the success
> > rate on this seems on par with printers using traditional methods -- which
> > is to say, ever so slightly better than dismal), and doesn't try to print
> > the pixels too big, I find that one can make very nice inkjet prints.  I
> > have scanned old negatives and made inkjet prints that are just as 
> > pleasing
> > (to me, anyway) as my original prints.  However, it generally requires a
> > B&W-only setup with several grey inks in addition to black.  As far as
> > longevity goes, Dr. Wilhelm seems to think most of the current art-quality
> > inkjet media and supplies will be stable for more than 100 years, which is
> > more than enough for me.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > etienne
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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