[Alt-photo] Re: try one

Matti Koskinen mjkoskin at gmail.com
Wed Aug 14 18:15:34 UTC 2013

On 14.8.2013 10:29, raven erebus wrote:
> I find that if you pre-heat the metal with the iron before you start the
> laser printer transfer it works a lot better. I've only done this on solid
> copper though. It worked remarkably well! I'm using an HP laserjet 5P to
> print. I've heard that the newer laser printers don't work as well.
> Raven
Thanks Raven,

yes, preheating is a must, found it out while trying. On the pages doing 
PCB's with laser, it's clearly stated. I found the transparencies are 
the best, although they say using some type of inkjet papers are best, 
but they need to be soaked long time to get rid of the paper. Of course 
I tried with HP Advanced; not only it ruined the copper-board, but stuck 
on my iron as well. Didn't have a sheet of paper between iron and the HP :-(

I'm using HP LJ 1018, with an aftermarket cartridge. Do you create a 
specific halftone image, or just let the driver do the halftoning? And 
have you got rid of the horizontal lines laser printers sometimes 
create? I'm just about to do two cyanos, papers are almost dry, and I've 
used laser printer almost every digineg, fast, no drying or oiling.

This is just guesswork, but as the laser neg is actually a halftone, I 
think it doesn't matter (if the toner blocks UV well) if I overexpose?



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