Pepper Fogging on Sterling Lith FB - A fix!

Tony Sleep (halftone@cix.compulink.co.uk)
Mon, 4 Mar 96 21:19 GMT

It is suggested that you conduct your own experiments to determine how
much sulphite is
required. This will vary somewhat according to which developer you use,
how much you
dilute it, and how much the sodium sulpite you use has "gone off" (it
forms a layer of
carbonate and sulphate on exposure to air).

The best way to achieve this is to make up a 10%w.v. solution of sodium
sulphite, by
dissolving 100g of anhydrous sodium sulphite in 700ml of warm water, and
adding cold
water to make 1000ml. (NB- sodium sulphite solution does not store well -
keep in an
airtight bottle).

This can then be used in varying amounts to establish the point at which
fogging is
eliminated. Typically about the same volume as of Part A developer will
prove adequate. For
example :-

1 part 10% SSS (sodium sulphite stock solution)
1 part Novolith A
1 part Novolith B
16 parts water (very adjustable between 4 and 20 parts, depending
on effect wanted)

If you cannot be bothered to make tests, it's suggested that you stick to
the amounts above. This should eliminate pepper fog. If you add too much
sulphite you will elminate fog, but prints will be flat with degraded
D-Max.

A further consideration is the addition of restrainer (potassium bromide).
This also inhibits
pepper fog formation, but not to the same extent. It also has the useful
property of allowing
some control over image colour - addition of 1 part 10%w.v. potassium
bromide solution to
the above SSS+Novolith working solution changes the image colour from
pinky-sepia to a
yellow-sepia. It also extends development times considerably (by about
2x), but produces a
stronger "lith" effect, with excellent blacks.

Note that if you add potassium bromide, somewhat less sodium sulphite
will be required for
pepper fog supression.


Tony Sleep