Here are two Amidol formulas, neither of which I have used. I had them
in files and thought they might be of interest. I have been meaning to
try them out - but alas there are so many pictures and so little time.
-greg
Williams, Byrd. Amidol Water Bath: A Reduction Developer for Both
Film and Paper. Photo>Electronic Imaging, Vol 37 - Nr 9, 1994,
pgs 30-32.
Byrd-O-Dol Film Developer (mix just prior to use)
Water (68 f)............................ 750 ml
Sodium Sulfite ......................... 40 grams 2 level Tbsp
Amidol ................................. 3 grams 1 level Tbsp
Citric Acid ............................ 3 grams 1 level 1/2 Tsp
Water to make .......................... 1 liter
One Complete Development Cycle
Byrd-O-Dol ........... 45 seconds (this includes 15" drain)
Agitation: vigorous and continuous
Water* ............... 2 minutes (for 35mm 400 ISO film, add 40 grams of
sodium sulfite to tame grain)
Agitation: gently every 30 seconds
One Cycle = N-2 (rate film at 1/4 recommended ISO)
Two Cycles = N-1 (rate film at 1/2 the recommended ISO)
Three Cycles = Normal Development (full speed)
Four to Five Cycles = N+1 (rate film at twice the recommended ISO)
*Use same water for each cycle (reuse)
Byrd-O-Dol Paper Developer
Water (68 f) ........................... 750 ml
Sodium Sulfite ......................... 40 grams 3 level Tbsp
Amidol ................................. 10 grams 3 level Tbsp
Citric Acid ............................ 1 gram 1 level 1/4 Tsp
Potassium Bromide ...................... 2 grams 1 level 1/2 Tsp
Procedure: Place your first test print in the Byrd-O-Dol and
agitate constantly for 30 seconds or until the image begins to
emerge. Then, move the test print to the water bath* for three
to four minutes, until highlight development has stopped (face
down in case of safelight fog). Then stop, fix, etc, and inspect
in room light.
If the upper values are too light or too dark, adjust your
exposure time accordingly. Once the highlights are correct,
inspect the shadow areas for separation and maximum black. If
the low areas are weak or muddy, add a second amidol emersion for
approximately 30 seconds to two minutes, or until you get a solid
black in Zone I areas. Never go longer than it takes to achieve
maximum black and never use a second water bath
"The real secret is to try and choose a paper grade that is one
step higher in contrast than you would normally need for printing
a particular negative using your standard paper developer."
"* The same water bath should be used throughout a printing
session. Distilled water is helpful but not imperative."
>===for PGP Key finger Greg Schmitz <gws1@cunix.cc.columbia.edu>===
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Key fingerprint = 73 D3 91 15 96 69 74 E5 14 51 71 44 C8 ED 01 11
Key ID: A7026B1D Key Size: 1024 bits Created: 1994/11/10
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