Re: Dichromate/ size/tricolor/pigment

Peter Charles Fredrick (pete@fotem.demon.co.uk)
Sun, 21 Jul 1996 15:55:04 +0000

Hello Bernard,

<< So forget the lamp, ivory and jet blacks, forget brown and burnt sienna.
Think Quinacridone red (for magenta), Windsor or thalo blue (for cyan) and
yellow, practically any old yellow.
>>
Bernard Boudreau wrote:

>One quick comment. I have found, at least with Windsor Newton Cad. Yellows,
that they are not as transparent as other colours and can degrade the shadows
considerably if coated on top of the magenta and cyan coats. This is less
true with the pale yellow and more true with the deep yellow. I will usually
try to print the yellow coats first. <

First of all I have found Mars black as a nice no staining black, slightly
on the warm side.Judy is quite right to recommend the new Quinacridone reds
(for magenta)
I have found the Golden Quincridrone red best as it conforms to ASTM PV19
standard which gives a true magenta essential for a bright red rather than
an orange red, when mixed with yellow. Also thalo blue makes a fine
cyan,but it does come in green shade or red shade use the former not the
latter, it gives brighter green when mixed with yellow. Thalo is a
comparatively dark colour as it comes out of the pot or tube, so it needs a
lot of dilution before use, this is essential as it is also inclined to
stain, quite often it is better to mix a bit thin side then double print.
Now we come to the vexed question of the yellow! Judy has I am afraid
committed herself to what she describes I believe as a gross
overgeneralization :-) , that be as it may. Practically any old yellow
wont do. Yellow is a beguiling and misleading colour , the colour with the
highest tonal value, being very light its true strength is not realised
until it is often to late, once it goes wrong , you might as well throw
the print away, as it it's almost impossible to correct.So if it goes down
first as often recommended, the die is caste so to speak
Most yellows are in
fact very opaque hence the advise to print first, but some of the modern
synthetic yellows are transparent,Liquitex Hansa Light & medium and Azo are
fine from this point view. My recommendation is to first print the cyan,
then the magenta with several thin coats until a rich blue/violet /mauve
colour is reached in the shadows, then and only then print the yellow,
again I hate to say it as a fatty, but, thin is beautiful :-) .As you
print a number of coats the reds and greens will will slowly build to full
chromatic value, and if all has gone well, it is an exciting point to
reach. finally lay down the black, generally it is better to in fact print
a mid grey at this stage.

I hope this helps Bernard anyway get in touch if you have further problems.

pete