<< Most yellows are in
fact very opaque hence the advise to print first, but some of the modern
synthetic yellows are transparent,Liquitex Hansa Light & medium and Azo are
fine from this point view. My recommendation is to first print the cyan,
then the magenta with several thin coats until a rich blue/violet /mauve
colour is reached in the shadows, then and only then print the yellow,
again I hate to say it as a fatty, but, thin is beautiful :-) >>
I am a little unclear, are these colors you mention watercolors? I haven't
had a lot of luck in printing with anything but watercolors or powdered
pigment. So if these aren't watercolors it would open a whole new world to
me. When I first started gum I tried printing with Liquitex acrylics without
any great success. If this is what you are using do you have any suggestions
on printing with it?
While I haven't had much trouble printing the yellows layers first it would
be nice to have a transparent yellow to help achieve color balance. Now if I
want more yellow after printing my cyan coats, I know I will need one more
coat of magenta and cyan to cover it.
On some of my prints I've been able to print yellow and magenta and saving
the cyan for the final coats. This would seem to be a similar technique,
your trying to judge the color depth and balance off the blues and I'm trying
to do it off the reds. As I often am working for a skin tone it might be
easier to judge off the reds.
I am not sure why you print in the order that you do. It would seem that if
the yellow is transparent it would be fun to print one coat of each color and
keep working that way towards the final print. This would allow you to
adjust the color balance while working towards the color depth step by step.
Bernie
Bernard Boudreau
1015 N. Cahuenga Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90038