Re: Polaroid transfers tips

Macy Garcia (filmpro@cris.com)
Thu, 25 Jul 96 11:22:43 -0000

Karen wrote:

>There's nothing in your tips about Lysol; I wonder whether you were
>responding
>to someone else? Can one use Lysol to help adhere some large areas that
>won't
>transfer? If so, which kind of Lysol (the cleaner or the air spray) and =
how
>does one use it? I would be interested in trying a method that helps =
along
>large areas that won't transfer.

I have received a lot of inquiries about my tips for Polaroid =
transfer so I'm going to post the following to the list:

>Please send info on other tips regarding 669 transfers. I enjoyed your
>comments on the SX-70 with the enlarger. Never did this but will try soon.

After transferring to you paper (or other medium), you may notice an =
over all yellow tint. Even in the enlarger process I find you can't =
filter it out. You can soak the finished print in fixer for a minute =
or two, which will clear that up a bit, and make the reds redder.

I've used Arches hot press and cold press paper. The smoother the =
paper the clearer and sharper the detail. The rougher paper gives a =
more painterly effect.

I like Derwent Watercolor pencils to touch-up or enhance the colors =
of my transfers. I also use a very fine liner watercolor brush with =
regular watercolors as well. If your in LA or southern Ca. see if =
there is a Michael=B9s Craft store. That's where I got my tub water =
colors and the pencils. Every few weeks they have a sale up to 40-50% =
on supplies. I saved about $70 on my individual set of 72 pencils.

You may find that the Watercolor paper you use gets quite warped with =
all the soaking and drying. I've used a mounting press, but sometimes =
you still can't get all the warp out of a print. Look for some =
"Multimedia Board". This is a white paper about 20x30". It has a very =
nice texture, not smooth but not rough like cold press. It is very =
stiff. You can soak it in warm water, chemicals etc. and it stays =
absolutely flat. (it's as thick as a sheet of 90-120 watercolor =
paper). Even using a dryer to dry it, it doesn't warp. The only =
problem is it is brittle. This is a concern merely in handling large =
sheets. You can snap off a corner lick a cracker. One cut to printing =
size, normal handling is fine. I get it at HG Daniel=B9s in S. Ca. =
I've seen it in the Dick Blick Art Supply Catalog as well.

Regarding the Lysol tip, sometimes the pull off (of dense emulsion) =
associated with Polaroid transfer
is part of the uniqueness of the process. I wouldn't totally dispense =
of the standard technique. I have several transfers w/ pull-off of =
Columns in Rome that I wouldn't touch at all.

Enjoy Polaroid!!

Part two:

When transferring Polaroids to paper (or anything else for that =
matter) you can do a dry transfer or a wet transfer. As soon as you =
begin the processing by pulling the film through the processor, I =
wait about 20 seconds before peeling them apart. The longer they are =
together the less color you get in your transfer. To short a time is =
also unwanted. Place the transfer rapidly onto your transfer medium, =
making sure not to move it once down. If you do you will blur the =
image. Use a soft rubber roller for about 2 minutes. You can also =
remove the negative in about 45-60 seconds (best for darker images, =
especially w/ dry transfer).

Dry transfer as it indicates, means that you apply the negative to a =
dry paper or material. No prep.

With wet transfers, you soak the paper (etc.) in a bath of warm =
water, for up to 10 min. (Some say up to an hour, but I don't have =
the patience). Remove the paper and place it on a flat surface. I =
like to use a magazine. It absorbs the water, and you can tear out =
several wet pages, and your ready for your next transfer. Lightly =
squeegee. The more wet it is the more painterly the effect.

Here's the problem with transfers: One the Negative is separated and =
applied, it 's emulsion begins to harden. Any dense or dark areas =
after about 80 seconds or so can tear away from your paper when =
removing the negative. There by limiting the amount of time you can =
transfer.

Tip: With the wet process, apply an even coat of guess what? Lysol =
spray. That's right! Any fragrance is fine. This will allow you to =
let things transfer for up to 2 hours. When you peel the neg. away, =
even the darkest areas will remain intact.

Try it. It's a lot of fun!

Macy Garcia