Re: a big (carbon) mess

Tom Hawkins ()
Fri, 17 January 1997 5:24 PM

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> From: traua.sss@worldnet.att.net
> To: Multiple recipients of list <alt-photo-process@cse.unsw.edu.au>
> Subject: Re: a big (carbon) mess
> Date: Thu, 16 January 1997 6:49 PM
>
>
>
> ----------
> Tom Hawkins wrote::
> >
> > 1. Should I use RC or fibre based paper?
> >
> I use the back of old RC prints for tissues.
>
> For the transfer paper both should work. Fibre based is preferred because
> the available surfaces are better.
>
> The easiest material to use for tissue, I have found, is ortho film. I
use
> discarded negatives, and pour the
> gelatin onto the emulsion side of the ortho film. I don't think the side
> matters, but thats
> what I tried the first time and it works. The advantage is that it lays
> perfectly flat. This is
> important because if there are any hills and valleys in your tissue while
> you are pouring
> the thickness of the gelatine will be uneven and in some places, too
thin.
> Also you can
> wash the excess gelatine off the tissue after transfer and reuse it.
>
>
> > 2. As for the tissue, I have on hand both sumi ink and Winsor Newton
> black
> > tube watercolors. Which is more likely to give a satisfactory result
> for
> > a beginner?
> >
>
> The only differences that I have found is aesthetic. The process seems to
> be pretty immune to
> source of color as long as it does not react with the gelatine. I often
use
> gouache which has
> a large quantity of other stuff in it (white pigment, gum arabic, etc)
and
> still works well.
> You will want to experiment with the quantity of pigment. Generally I
find
> that less is better.
>
> The easiest for a beginner is ink, since it is easier to mix. I have used
> cheap sumi ink which
> gives me a very black black, works well but is very grainy. I have found
> that Higgins black
> india ink Jeffrey.D.Mathias@worldnet.att.net (must be the non-waterproof type) gives me a dark chocolate
brown
> with fine grain.
> The mixture that I use is 10% ink. Thats 10ml ink to 100ml gelatin.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Cheers
>
> Al
>

----------Jeffrey.D.Mathias@worldnet.att.net Fri 17 Jan 5:57 1997
From: (Jeffrey D. Mathias)
Date: Fri, 17 January 1997 5:57 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list
Subject: Re: Fabric Fotos

Stanley and Sal and perhaps others,

I always ask myself a philisophical question of how much "trade secrets"
to share. As a photographer, I do not feel that the image is the
ultimate goal. Rather the final print - the communication medium that
the viewer sees and experiences. Therefore, I have always strived to
make the best communication from a visuallization. I don't "do" alot of
images. The projects I do are carfully selected because I know how much
time I will have to put into them. Many a time I will only produce one
final print from a negative. This is especially true of the folding
screens. To the bottom line - I do not feel anyone else out there has
the time to waste doing what I do. So, I do not mind providing what
some may consider "trade secrets". However. I do ask that if something
valuable is gained, that the source of information be remembered and
perhaps rewarded with a sample of work.

I've taken the liberty to change the subject to "Fabric Fotos" to be
more indicative of the subject.

The fabric in question is called "Sea Isle" or "05618/0000 white" or
"COTTON-SEA ISLAND B'CLOTH". The cotton is grown on the islands off of
North Carolina. It is the finest of any cotton fiber. I do not know
how many threads to the inch in the cloth, but with a magnifier it looks
like twice that of Pima or Egyption. The distributor I use is Stylecrest
Fabrics Ltd., 215 West 39th Street, New York, NY 10018, 212-354-0123.
But, I order from their office in Georgia.

It aint cheep. It cost over $25.00 a yard retail (45" width). But I
got it for 12.50 a yard wholesale price. That means you have to
purchase a bolt (ie. plenty). The price has most likely gone up since
then.

To coat for Pt/Pd: Place fabric on glass or plactic.
Coat with three times the chem. as paper, use a brush, do not let
edge of chem dry within image area before done.
let the chem. soak in plenty
Hang on a line with clips to dry
Ok to use a hair dryer
place into printing frame carfully (any stretching of the fabric will
rebound resulting in a distortion in the image.)
expose jseigel@panix.com (you cannot check on exposure by opening the back because
registration cannot be kept.
process - the image will not scratch like one on paper, and clearing
will be faster and "easier"

Most likely there will be problems. The full technique involves much
more than the simple outline above. I do recommend that one have much,
much experience coating Pt/Pd on paper before attempting do this on
fabric. Three times the chem. means three times the cost.

By the way, for those who print Pt/Pd, I have tried an extensive array
of fabrics. Cotton 100% works best. Silk does not work at all; cannot
clear.

Jeff

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