May adorable server crashed once more, I think sending message into
oblivion. If you got this already, sorry..
Of the many developers for kallitype I tried, fastest and cleanest working
was B&S ammonium citrate for platinum, don't know the pH. The color was so
brown, though, it could have been VDB. My choice therefore was sodium
acetate with tartaric acid... never tested pH, but expect it was in the
3-5 range (and NEARLY as nice & clean as the am cit). I did try all those
chemical-heavy Rachelle salts developers, BTW, didn't find any of them
especially good and all a pain to mix.
> Leave the gum arabic out. It is not necessary with modern papers. What =
> you may try is what I call proportional sensitizing, i.e. a tranparent =
> (no pigment) gum dicromate print under the satista or kallitype image. =
> It will size the paper proportinally to density of the future ferric =
> print, allowing for better tone separation in the shadows, and increased =
> shadow density.
It isn't clear to me why you would size for kallitype, I never saw any
need for it, though maybe I just didn't understand. But I wonder if the
green effect you mention today of the unpigmented dichromate exposure is
related to the green Peter Fredrick said he got when he did something or
other to an unpigmented dichromate exposre. Wash in 1% sulfuric acid?
Someone with a good search utility should find that in the archive --
maybe early summer '96. jseigel@panix.com (or e-mail Peter Fredrick, who claims to
have unsubscribed) Perhaps your water got acid?
But I'm wondering about that unpigmented undercoat. Even assuming there's
a real benefit, how do you register the subsequent kallitype coat? Do you
preshrink?
Cheers from 15 degree F NYC,
Judy
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