<P>Using the camera, w/a Miro DC-20 (or similar capture card of quality),
it is fed into the Mac clone (or whatever, PC) via <B>S-video</B> cable
into Adobe Premier, movie captured @ quarter screen size for best quality,
as short bursts of film clips. Then, go through those frame by frame snipping
PICT stills.
<BR>
<BR>In PS 4.0 you can use the <I>Replace Color </I>along w/the <I>Smudge
</I>and <I>Clone </I>tools to attempt a removal of lined artifacts caused
by one head gathering of tri-color imagery.
<P>Best bet would be a three-head digital video camera. Whew! Too much
money.
<P>W/the other tools in PS, you'll come up w/a reasonable semblance of
grained photographic quality … hey, not unlike a gum print or bromoil.
<P>My prints are all done on an <I>Alps</I>, using <I>Hammermill</I> ink-jet
paper which has a high rag content and is rather archival. W/that combo,
the prints are expected to last longer than standard color printing.
<P>One aspect which aids appearance, is to clone portions of the image
and expand that attribute to a larger area; … in other words, extend the
borders so they will not be sharp edged rather more of a soft appearance.
<P>I've since stepped up to an <I>Olympus D600L</I> w/1250x1080 (or close)
resolution. The prints @ 8x10 on a <I>Fuji Pictographic</I> machine are
virtually indistinguishable from a photograph.
<P>If one enjoys process rather than straight reproduction, one will certainly
enjoy this methodology.
<P>For further use, one's file can be output to film for a reasonable cost
and 11x14 prints can easily be made w/good quality. I often make 16x20's
… but that quality is quite fuzzy and it doesn't seem worthwile.
<P>Jack Fulton</HTML>
</x-html>From ???@??? Fri Jun 26 08:45:11 1998
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Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 09:16:10 -0400
From: Sandy King <sanking@hubcap.clemson.edu>
Subject: Re: Enlarged Lith/Ortho negatives
To: alt-photo-process-l@skyway.usask.ca
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Gwen,
There are some instructions on the Bostick and Sullivan web page for making
continuous tone negatives from Freestyule APHS film, using a modified form
of Pyro PMK. I am in the process of experimenting with this system and it
looks very promising. Briefly, the system involves making the interpositive
on a film such as FP4 or TRI-X using a very dilute version of D-23, then
making the final negative on APHS film, developed in PMK. I began testing
this system with a Stouffer step-tablet and have gotten through making the
interpositives and final negatives on APHS. There is little question but
that APHS with PMK is capable of giving long-scale continuous tone
negatives though in my work I had to make a number of modificatins to the
instructions to get enough Dmax in the final negatives. My final tests will
involve printing the step tablet in carbon with one of the tests that
produced a density range of 1.8 and of course, printing a real image
(perhaps the only test that really matters).
One quick observation I want to make from this experiment, after plotting
the interpositives made with FP4 in dilute D-23, is that the FP4/D23 1:3
combination produces a characteristic curve that is more straigh-lined
than any developer/film combination I am familiar with. I had not used D23
before so this particular finding was a real bonus from this work.
Sandy King
and have reached the point where I can definitely say that it is possible
to make >Hi everyone! I'm new to this list and hope I'm not redundant in
asking for
>information on making GOOD enlarged continuous tone negatives on
>orthochromatic/lithographic film for use in alt processes.
>
>Is it possible to make a full scale negative (or nearly) on ortho film? I
>understand that it renders fewer shades of gray, but so many people seem
>to suggest this method. I've never had good results and have given up in
>favor or large format original negatives. However, I teach courses in
>alternative processes and wish to provide the students more low tech
>options. Vandyke brown printing and gum printing both allow for a much
>longer tonal range than the negatives we're using can produce.
>
>I'm anxiously awaiting the next issue of Post Factory which promises the
>whole how-to. Any clues while I'm flailing about trying to
>prepare for the Fall semester? Judy??
>
>This is what I've tried thus far: the flat "bad positive" developed in
>Dektol 1:6 - 1:12, D-76 1:1, Selectol in many dilutions. Our chosen film
>is usually the Freestyle house brand, but I've tried Kodalith and DuPont.
>Should the contact print to get the negative be developed differently?
>
>Has anyone used fine-grained positive for this purpose? Or the new
>"continuous tone ortho" film listed the the Photo Warehouse catolog? How
>about pinhole negatives straight to ortho film (I tried this also).
>
>Thanks!
>
>Gwen Walstrand
>Drury College
>Springfield, MO