Re: R-3000 Color Correction


John Rudiak (wizard@laplaza.org)
Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:20:01 -0700


Can you tell us alittle about your equipment? Is it a color enlarger, or a black
and white with filters? Do you have the heat absorbing glass and UV filters in
there? What temperature are you developing at? I have found R-3000 to be the
easiest color printing as far as getting the colors close without playing with
filters. Almost all the transparancies I print, regardless of emul;sion, use a
filter pack of 15 Cyan.

John

FotoDave@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/10/99 8:26:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> cooper@wvinter.net writes:
>
> > I have been trying to print some slides using the R-3000 process with
> > Kodak's RadianceIII papers. I began by using the suggested filtration
> > of 20C and 10M which gave overly yellow prints. I corrected the problem
> > with equal amounts of magenta and cyan. Then I noticed that the greys
> > from a slide of the Macbeth Color Checker were coming out green. I
> > tried adding more magenta filtration, however ....
>
> <snip>
>
> Without seeing the print, it's hard to judge how bad the crossover is.
>
> Note, however, when you are printing directly from positive to positive, the
> bottom line is the print materials use imperfect dyes and you don't go through
> color-correction stage (internegatives integral masking, color separation uses
> color-correction masks), so it is impossible to get perfect balance. You can
> read about the theoretical part on many printing / science of photography
> books, or for simple discussion, see Ctein's article (also in his latest book
> Post Exposure).
>
> Well, to be accurate, the manufacturer can set the curve so that a gray scale
> prints as perfect gray, but in order to achive that, saturated color must
> become less saturated. There is simply a conflict in requirement because of
> the imperfection of dyes. I would think that KODAK would assume that when
> people want to print slides directly to print, they would want to maintain the
> nice saturation, so the balance might have been chosen to keep saturation
> rather than perfect gray.
>
> So you can start with your MacBeth balancing, and as soon as you become close
> to gray balance, you can print your image and go from there.
>
> Of course, if the crossover is very bad, then there might be other problems,
> and as suggested, contact KODAK for that.
>
> Dave



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